thinking about buying a 914 for auto crossing what year would be the best to get??

[Automahn]

Hi guys I just purchased a 911SC and was contemplating the idea of getting a 914 to go autocrossing with. What would be the best year 914 to get. I would like to keep it street legal and being in Calif smog would be an issue...with that in mind could anybody make some recommendations Thanx in advance.

[Bleyseng]

1973 2.0L with no rust in the rockers or battery tray area!

[campbellcj]

You DEFINITELY want a 74 or older if you have a good selection to choose from within your budget. 73 and under are smog exempt in CA, as you probably know. The 74 2.0's are also very nice and typically pass smog with no major probs if the FI is intact (DON'T buy one with carbs unless you know a way to get it smogged...)

What class do you plan to run, and/or what organization(s) -- PCA/POC/SCCA? For stock classes I second the vote for the 73 2.0 as the nicest street driver and autocross steed. If you are going to heavily modify the car anyway or even do a /6 conversion, it doesn't matter much between 70-73. In fact a 1.7 car would be a cheaper starting point than a 2.0 if that's your plan.

Happy hunting,
Chris C.
73 914 2.0 (nah, I'm not biased...)

[The Count]

I'm not positive about this, but I believe that 71's are the lightest model year... Granted, even with the weight advantage, a 1.7 would have a tough time keeping up with a 2.0. Of course, that's what makes the 2.0 so expensive!

[Stuart Lehr]

If you don't want to go the 914-6 route, which is the ultimate autocrossing Porsche, then the '73 914 2.0 is the best. Had factory front and rear bars,etc. which were optional in '74. anything newer has much more smog crap and those god-awful bumpers!
Older than '73 had the old tail-shifter- replaceable, but expensive to do...

[John Rogers]

A 73 or earlier is probably the best bet since there is on smog in CA or many other states. If you auto-x with the SCCA you will be in B Stock with Miatas which are hard to beat. In PCA 914s get divided usually with 1.7l/1.8l auto-x in A stock with 356s and the 2l race in C stock with the 924.If you decide to make mods, which happens frequently, then the 73 and older becomes very important. You have to remember that auto-x really stresses the whole car and unless the car you buy has been well maintained things will break. Good luck.

[Automahn]

Well thanx for the advice. I just think breaking a 914 would be a lot more practical than breaking my 911 especially in the wallet area..another quick question if you lighten the car does that take you out of the stock class?? by lighten I mean take out the creature comforts like carpets, doorpanels etc etc..

[Joe Bob]

Go to http://www.pcasdr.org/autocross/autocross.shtml
and download the rules...they may not be exact for your area, but will give you an idea. You need to go to your specific sanctioning body for their rules...

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Automahn, who is it that you want to go and play with?

First, second, and third steps to modifying a car that will be used for competition: Read the Rules, Read the Rules, Read the Rules. Many (but not all) PCA Zones/Regions have their rulebooks available for download on their websites. Be aware that different Zones run different sets of rules. For instance, Zone 7 rules say that any mod listed for one class will put you in that class, while Zone 8 (and the "national" Parade rules, which are different!) assign "points" for modifications and move you into various classes with certain numbers of points.

SCCA, I think, charges for their rulebook. But I don't think it's a lot of money.

It is well worth figuring out who you want to/can play with, and getting their rule books.

In general, lightening of the car is a no-no for a stock class. But some places may not care.

--DD

--DD