I'm so confused

in10s · 12-12-2005, 08:26 AM

I bought a 75 914 3 weeks ago and have recently been trying to start the engine. It has not been started in 3 years. As I have owned the car for three weeks, I have also been a junior mechanic... in training... for 3 weeks. I have managed to adjust the valves, which appeared to be way too tight. Q1 The valve cover gasket on the passenger side was black, the other looked pretty clean. Is there a problem brewing?
Q2 The car has dual Weber carbs. I'm pretty sure that the engine is flooded. The plugs appeared to be wet with gas. Does this make sense?
Q3 I realigned the distributor drive shaft as it was not set @ 12 degrees as depicted in the Haynes manual. The distributor has a one piece electronic ignition module that replaces the points. In a technical article posted here it states that the rotor should be at 12 degrees. Is this correct, and does it matter if the rotor is off as long as the drive shaft is set correctly?
Q4 I need to rebuild the carbs probably sooner than later, at the moment I just want to know that the engine is still alive and breathing. I've read several of the technical articles and it would appear that, with TDC set @ the firing stroke, all I need is a spark that ignites (and possibly a prayer which I prefer to a fat chance) to get this thing started. Am I correct in assuming this? Help! My brain hurts!!

Curt914 · 12-12-2005, 11:22 AM

Fire, Fuel and at least reaonable compression are needed.
Sounds like you have lots of fuel!

1) have you done a compression test? Howzit look?

2)Are you getting spark at the spark pugs? Pull all the plugs. connect one plug to one of the spark plug wires. Ground the electrode of that spark plug. Have someone run the starter. Careful here as the you might get zapped, wear a glove while holding the spark plug against a good ground. Are you getting a good healthy spark at that plug? If so, thats a start, but it does not mean the spark is arriving at the correct time. Thats ignition timing. If no sparky, find out why. Check the coil wiring and the points replacement thing youve got in there.

3) Carbs - very easy to work on. Lots of info here at Pelican. Do a search. First though, what kind of fuel pump is supplying the carbs. Needs to be low pressure - 3 pounds. The original fuel injection fuel pump was a high pressure unit and not suitalble for carbs. Are both carbs getting fuel? Are both carbs flooding?
If one carb is flooding, pull the top section off that carb, its easy enough. Check for a stuck float or needle valve in the top assembly. See if the float is full of fuel. It should float so that it can shut off the fuel delivery (via the needle valve in the top assembly) from the fuel pump depending on the amount of fuel in the carb fuel resiovior. If the float is full of fuel, it cant shut off the fuel delivery and most likely you will have a flooded condition.

3) are you confident you did the valve adjustment corrrectly? IF every single valve was tight, is it possible that you got confused as to where you were in the valve adjustment process and now the valve adjustment is really out of whack?

Sounds like you have no fear of the work if you were willing to jump in and do a valve adjust right off. Not sure what your experiance level is (junior mechanic, I believe you mentioned),
so the preceeding may or may not be obvious. Good luck.

Curt

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

If all the valves were tight when you checked, chances are you're not checking correctly. Either you didn't get the engine rotated to the correct place to check, or you don't have a good idea of what the "correct" amount of drag on the feeler gauge is. The first time I adjusted a set of valves (in an old Honda Accord), I set them all way too loose. I asked an automotive-experienced buddy of mine to help me out, and he came over and set one valve for me. Then I checked it, and got an idea of what the "feel" was.

The distributor driveshaft not being at that 12-degree angle could be no big deal--or it could be that you didn't have the engine at TDC for the #1 cylinder when you were looking. I would re-check that. Be careful of the washer at the bottom end of the drive shaft, though--if it falls into the crankcase, you will be very unhappy....

No idea about the carbs; they're not my thing.

--DD

in10s · 12-14-2005, 04:34 AM

Went in for another round. Switched to points. Checked the coil for the right resistance. It was O.K. so I didn't switch it out. Got a few weak backfires and nothing else. Checked for spark @ plug #1......zippo. At this point I'm going to go through the troubleshooting sequence in the Haynes manual. If nothing clicks I'm going to join the Hairclub for Men and listen to alot of classical music.

Bleyseng · Bleyseng's Garage

Find TDC looking at the #1 valves! sounds like you have the timing way off if its backfiring. There is also a mark on the flywheel to line up along with the marks on the fan. I would then adjust the dizzy drive and then set the dizzy with static timing to get the engine to run. Then set the timing to 28 degrees BTDC @3500rpms with a timing lite.

in10s · 12-14-2005, 09:19 AM

IT runs!!! A couple of things were wrong. I didn't have the distributor firmly seated and along the way I reversed the 3 and 4 plug wires... After the huge cloud of smoke it seemed to sound pretty good. There is however,possibly, a problem a brewing. On the driver's side there is a steady drip of oil coming from the valve cover onto the heat exchanger. I haven't investigated this yet but I will shortly.
I rechecked the valve adjustment and all appeared to be O.K..
I did a cold compression check and they were all over the place..#1=110 #2=90 #3=70 #4=65
Later today, I will check them when it is warmed up to get a more accurate reading.

Curt914 · 12-14-2005, 10:09 AM

Great News

Glad you got it running. Hopefully there will be some explanation for the compression values being a bit over the map.
With regards to valve cover leak, thats not too uncommon.
Do a search on this forum (914) for the various tricks to getting them to stop leaking. I had to remove my valve cover and scrape the hell out of the place on the valve cover where the gasket goes. Then I wire brushed it till it was spotless in that area. There was an accumulation of all sorts of gasket cement that finally made the surface anything but smooth. I am also told that the valve cover goes on the engine with the "VW" logo (thats on the exterior of the valve caover) upside down. Who knows! But thats the way I did it.

Curt

in10s · 12-14-2005, 01:32 PM

Thanks for all of the info!!

in10s · 12-15-2005, 02:00 PM

I flipped over the driver's side valve cover and the leak is gone!!!!

Curt914 · 12-15-2005, 07:42 PM

Yahoo.... glad that did the trick.
Leaking cars, 914 or otherwise are a bummer to contend with. Buts its especially bad when the oil leaks right on to the hot exhaust system!

Sounds like your making prgress.

Now that you have it running, have you driven it?

Curt

in10s · 12-15-2005, 08:05 PM

Tomorow... The dwell is at 51 degrees and I haven't set it with the timing light. I'm also going to replace a diferential seal.
Thanks for the tip!!! That was alot of oil... If I took it on the road people behind me may have thought that I was a secret agent releasing an oil slick and a smoke screen to make a getaway...

Curt914 · 12-15-2005, 08:17 PM

Allright.... Good luck and have fun tomorrow....steady as she goes!