HELP! drive shaft removal

[David McLaughlin]

Looking for any information as to how to remove the drive shaft (CV joints?) from my 914-6 conversion.

I am in the middle of replacing the rear wheel bearing. I have the wheel, caliper, disk, and drivers side heat exchanger off. Now I can not figure out what to do next. The Haynes manual is rather vague. I thought the shaft was attached to the trany by the 12 point star bolts, but they look like 6mm allen head bolts. The axle spins when I try to loosed. Is it safe to put it in gear and let the trany hold things?

If anyone has a step by step from this point on, it would greatly be appreciated.

PS: I am very new to the Porsche world as well as most mechanical doings, so laymans terms would be needed.

Thanks,

Dave
djm914-6@mediaone.net
1970 914-6

[This message has been edited by David McLaughlin (edited 03-11-2001).]

[scotty914]

FINALLY one i can answer, maybe. First you cannot use the tranny to hold the cv joints because the differential will make the other wheel turn, you will need to lock the other wheel one way or another, like a piece of angle iron with holes drilled to line up with the lugs and let it hit the ground and wedge in place ( now that i think about it this would work on the side you are working on but you would have to put it back together). second with the cv bolts some body might have changed them at one time because the could not get the proper tool. once you get the cv's apart the haynes should be able to take over.
also you should do the wheel end first


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scott thacher
75 1.8 under construction
75 under rust
(fine german rust)

[JP Noonan]

I lock the wheel using the hand brake. The tool is a "triple square" and can be had at most FLAPS, but as was mentioned it may have been replaced with a standard Allen head. Use brake cleaner and a wire brush to clean out the head and make sure what it is.

Very often (well I've only done it 4-5 times so I'm far from an expert) the bolts are striped or seized. In that case use a new (or sharpen the teeth on an old set) set of vise grips. Clamp down on the head of the bolts AS HARD AS YOU CAN then crank them off.

The other "fun" part about rear bearings is removing the stub axle's castleated nut. 32mm I think, and cranked on with "more torque then Gods tractor". I needed a 3/4" impact gun for about 10 minutes to remove one set of these nuts. I've also used a regular 1/2" rachet on a 930's stubs, so it depends. After the stub axles are out you pound out the bearing. Replace them by freezing the bearing and heating the swing arm.

[David McLaughlin]

I like the idea of using a piece of angle iron to hold this thing from rotating on me. I do not have to worry about the castleated nut. In a previous post, i mentioned that it was not even finger tight. The PO did not put in the cotter pins, and it must have loosened on its own. I am hoping the nuts/bolts are not too rusted. The car cas not been together for too long. I only had to put in a little effort to remove the exchanger nuts.

So, am I to understand that I remove the wheel side first? Once I get all of the bolts removed (it really does look like a 6mm allen) how do I get the spindles out of the tranny and hub? Will it just fall out with a little persuation?

Thanks,
Dave
djm914-6@mediaone.net
1970 914-6

[scg]

I'd remove the cv bolts on the tranny side first, since its *really* hard to get at the ones on the wheel side. When they bolts are out on the tranny side, the driveshaft *may* fall off (a bad sign for the cv in my case) or you may have to *gently* pry them off at the seal joint with a screwdriver (or just whack the thing with a soft hammer).

Then, making sure that the driveshaft isn't pointing at anything, I used a wheel puller to drive out the shaft from the wheel side -- it was really easy.

scott

[scg]

I'd remove the cv bolts on the tranny side first, since its *really* hard to get at the ones on the wheel side. When they bolts are out on the tranny side, the driveshaft *may* fall off (a bad sign for the cv in my case) or you may have to *gently* pry them off at the seal joint with a screwdriver (or just whack the thing with a soft hammer).

Then, making sure that the driveshaft isn't pointing at anything, I used a wheel puller to drive out the shaft from the wheel side -- it was really easy.

scott

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I don't think you want to get the "spindle" out of the tranny. (That would be the "output flange", I think...)

The general idea is that you unbolt the inboard CV joint (should be M8 triple-square or aftermarket allen-head bolts), then carefully pry the CV loose from the ouput flange. The two roll pins and the old grease can make the joint stick to the flange, but it will come loose. Be careful not to gouge up the sealing surfaces.

Then swing the traling arm downward (it can be useful to remove the lower shock retaining bolt) to get it out of line with the tranny. Loosen the spindle nut so that the side is even with the end of the spindle--this gives you an even surface to pound on and will protect the threads from damage. Then use a BFH to pound the spindle out of the hub. You can remove the outer CV from the spindle once it's out of the car--it's easier in a vise than in the trailing arm.

The rest is up to you.

--DD

[scotty914]

okay so i got it somewhat right ... the reason i thought it would be better to do the wheel side first is the the tranny would be holding the tranny end still, but i have never completely removed the axle ( or a lot of other things )


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scott thacher
75 1.8 under construction
75 under rust
(fine german rust)

[David McLaughlin]

Well, thank you all for your input. I think I may have a grasp on this job. We'll see what happens this weekend.

FWIW: to all those considering converting your car to a 6cyl. Use the correct motor mount! I did not know what I was looking at when I bought my car, and found out sometime later that the PO used a Quick Six Bar. I'm sure it works fine for the most part, but it makes repairs a real PITA. To remove the drivers side heat exchanger, I had to unbolt the motor from the bar and jack it up. Then unbolt the drivers side of the bar and move it forward a few inches to get to the last bolt holding on the exchangers. When I finish with the bearing R&R, I will have to do it all again, unless I get the headers. Hmmmmm. Anyone interested in a set of factory 6cyl exchangers in good condition?


Dave
djm914-6@mediaone.net
1970 914-6

[scg]

Nope! Bulkhead mount and headers for me!

[David McLaughlin]

Just wanted to thank you all for your help on this subject. Everything went smoothly this weekend. Have it all bach together except for the CV to transmition connection, I'm waiting for a gasket. As one who have never so much has changed his oil, nevermind tackled anything mechanical, the operation went so smooth. almost too smooth, no parts left ocer though.

Thanks again!


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Dave
1970 914-6 (soon GT)