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Felix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: San Jose
Posts: 105
Question Renegade w/p hose is tight to firewall!

This is a new Renegade conversion with a 350cid (replacing my Jaide and 283 cid) I hammered the firewall for the tall valve cover to clear but the hose is tight between the head and firewall. Should I increase the length to get it higher between the valve cover and firewall or just drop the engine and more clearance? I'm also thinking of header wrapping the hose...

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Felix
1974 914 250hp 2.7tt Audi conversion, neo914-6 concept
1990 300CE, 217hp AMG 3 piece wheels
1988 300TE, 260hp RENNTech 3.6L
1990 300E, 185hp stock
Old 04-11-2006, 10:44 PM
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Running the hose around would be a heck of a lot easier. Do you want an excuse to remove some firewall?
Old 04-11-2006, 11:25 PM
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Location: SoKal
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Hi Felix,

Can you re-clock the outlet of the pump
(assuming chrysler style BB pump) and run it lower down so that you get enough cleareance?

In essence. Instead of going over the top. Go under the heads and BEHIND or BELOW your alternator belt/pulley.

Geez.. I hope I am making sense....

Is that possible with your setup????

Lemme see if can get SKLINE on this. He has a V8 setup that is really good..

Twystd1
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Old 04-11-2006, 11:59 PM
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Over/under.... routing rubber is easier than fabbing steel.

Wisdom cometh... Thanks Clayton and Scott!!!! Watchya gots?
Old 04-12-2006, 12:04 AM
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Whatcha need?

Twystd1
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Old 04-12-2006, 12:15 AM
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I've tried several ways to change the clock position of the w/p and still does not solve the engine to firewall clearance. Scott M says there may be +/-0.5" difference from car to car. Mine must be on the -0.5"! My routing is either at the head as pictured or higher between the valve cover to firewall where ithere is less clearance. Looks like I'll just need to more...
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Felix
1974 914 250hp 2.7tt Audi conversion, neo914-6 concept
1990 300CE, 217hp AMG 3 piece wheels
1988 300TE, 260hp RENNTech 3.6L
1990 300E, 185hp stock
Old 04-12-2006, 10:24 AM
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Cooling Hoses

Before you go too far, I saw some great manifolding type fittings somewhere that's a big improvement over the normal hose fittings/hose we put on the front of the block. I can't find them right now but I remember wishing I knew about them before I put my engine back in because they looked like a big time improvement. I'll keep looking or maybe someone else knows what I'm talking about.
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Old 04-12-2006, 10:31 AM
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How does this solve the clearance if the hose is a set diameter/thickness? The Renegade elbows keep them close to the engine...
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Felix
1974 914 250hp 2.7tt Audi conversion, neo914-6 concept
1990 300CE, 217hp AMG 3 piece wheels
1988 300TE, 260hp RENNTech 3.6L
1990 300E, 185hp stock
Old 04-12-2006, 10:56 AM
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I just realized I have a gear drive which may position the Harmonic Balancer and w/p belt out further than other engines. It's as tight to the gear drive as possible but maybe still loses .25 - .375" of firewall clearance...
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Felix
1974 914 250hp 2.7tt Audi conversion, neo914-6 concept
1990 300CE, 217hp AMG 3 piece wheels
1988 300TE, 260hp RENNTech 3.6L
1990 300E, 185hp stock
Old 04-12-2006, 11:39 AM
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Here is a view of my hose (bellows-flex 1" ID), its close and does contact the firewall but is not a big deal. I made sure the surfaces were smooth. The engine mounting system does have some wiggle room. Loosen up the engine supports & trans mounts and pull the engine/trans back. I might look at how high the engine support is mounted to the body. The fire wall is on a slope and if you engine is a bit higher it will give you less room. The same can apply to the transmission mounting. If you have it low the engine will tilt up may be just enough to make it tighter. Having said this, the fit is tight anyway you look at it. I don't like the design allot myself because of other fit issues, but it seems to work well even with the tight tolerances. John

Old 04-12-2006, 11:50 AM
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I'll find that thing, just give me a little time. I really remember how really disappointed I was when I saw it that I had already put my engine back in.
Just for info, I had an old conversion that used those zinc mpt x hose fittings. Those things are bad news - mine were so deteriorated (threads eaten away) and plugged up with corrosion there was only a 1/8" hole for water to go through. You have to use brass ones - Rod Simpson has some that fit better than the plumbing ones, but I think I even had to shave those down a bit.
As for the balancer, it's probably the standard one off a Chevy six, that Renegade modifies. Mine goes in all the way fine without a spacer but I had to machine a groove on the backside to clear one of the mounting bolt heads for my Erson gear drive idler mount which is on the outside of the case. It might be hard to believe but I took the balancer on and off about 4 times with the engine in the car to cahse an oil leak which I thought was the seal, but turned out to be the pan. So let me know if you're ever going to remove it in the car and I can give you a few tips.
Now, I'll try to find that cooling thing and let you know.


"I just realized I have a gear drive which may position the Harmonic Balancer and w/p belt out further than other engines. It's as tight to the gear drive as possible but maybe still loses .25 - .375" of firewall clearance..."

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Old 04-12-2006, 12:35 PM
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