Inner rocker repair.

[72porsche914]

First off, I need to straighten the car up(it sags on the right side). What's the best way to do it? Also, Can I weld a patch in the inner rocker instead of buying a whole rocker? There is a fist size hole at the jack plate. I will also be weld in a chassis stiffening kit. Help is greatly appreciated.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The flex is mostly due to the very weak condition of the inner rocker panel. This is one of the main longitudinal supports of the car. It doesn't support very well with a large hole in it, and the rest of it is probably in fairly sad shape as well. Cut out all of the bad metal, weld good new stuff in. POR-15 or use whatever anti-rust paint you like.

You can fabricate the patch panels yourself. It will take some skill, some tools, and a good bit of time. You might or might not be able to simply use flat sheetmetal--it won't be as strong as the bent stuff, if you use the same gauge of steel.

I know someone who made his own patch panels for the longitudinals and suspension console. He said if he ever had to do it again, he'd buy pre-made parts. It wasn't worth the time and trouble.

--DD

[TimW]

I had the same questions a few months ago before I started my wintertime rust repair. The before pictures are here.

The general consensus was not to disturb good metal, just cut out the rust + a little bit [of good metal to make sure you got all the rust] and weld in new pieces. Translation: patches are fine.

I used prefab pieces where I could (1/2 of the R&L camshell overlays & R jack triangle), and used patches everywhere else. I would suggest you do the same, focusing all your time and effort on the custom pieces, not the ones someone else has already made.

I used POR-15. It goes on really well; we’ll see how well it actually works in a few years .

Good luck and have fun!


[This message has been edited by TimW (edited 04-16-2001).]

[Special K]

I don't have any input on the welding part, but I have coated to vehicles with the POR-15 paint. I did the entire chassis and skid plate of my Jeep Wrangler 2 years ago. To this day, after a good powerwashing, it still looks as good as the day I painted it, without any sign of rust. I was so impressed with the results that I completely stripped and recoated the pan and "All" of the suspension components of my '73 2.0L. POR 15 sticks to the rust (and your skin, wear gloves!) with minimal prep work, but since you'll be removing all of the rust and installing new metal you "MUST" prep it properly for the POR 15 to adhere. I recommend going to their website and checking out the different kits that they offer. I just bought the gas tank restoring kit and the Hightemp paint for my Bursch exhaust, I'll take some pics as it goes back together.

Wow, I just re-read my post, and it sounds like I work for the company. I don't, I'm just real happy with the results I got.

Kevin
'73 2.0L (POR coated)
'75 2.0L (Poor cond.)

[JP Noonan]

The best thing would be the Brad Muyer kit, but it costs $300

[racejoe]

I second the Brad Mayeur Kit recommendation. It puts a world of stiffness down there. I have used POR-15 with good luck, although lately I have turned to using Zero Rust, pretreating with Rass-O'-Nil. It is ALOT easier to use than POR-15, particularly in hard to reach areas, like up inside the longitudinals. But you won't go wrong with either product. You can check out the kit and Zero Rust on my home page.

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Joe
74 Yellow 1.8L 914
72 Tangerine NoL 914
http://pages.sssnet.com/jkaull

[Va914]

What is the trick to getting the surface rust inside the long. removed and covered with a Por-15 type product. I have a rusted-out Jack tube (go figure) but the rest of the long. looks very solid. I was just going to cut rust from the jack tube area and cover it with a patch.

I have been using this product called Zero Rust. It seems to be working and holding up really well.

[efeinsmith]

The jack tube area is typically where rust begins because of the road crap that packs in there and stays wet. You might be surprised how much rust is actually there when you remove the remains of the jack receiver and begin cleaning the metal down. Just make sure you support the area properly when you cut out the damaged area. A good indication that things are shifting is the door clearances. The top and bottom should be equal.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Another good test for rust (that is very tough to convince yourself to do!!) is to take an icepick or screwdriver to the longitudinal around the rusty area. Poke at it with medium force--not enough to dent or go through decent sheet metal, but still with some force. If it goes through, the metal has been weakened by rust.

You can try "Skyco Ospho" or Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid) to halt some surface rust in its tracks, in particular in hard-to-reach areas. Like the inside of the longitudinals. You can try using a spray-wand to get that in, to get the water that rinses that stuff off in, and (after the water dries) to get your favorite anti-rust paint in. If you're cutting holes in the longitudinal anyway, that gives you access to get the sprayer in.

Regular scheduled maintenance: Every oil change (every 3000 miles without fail!!!), remove the screws that hold the bottom of the rocker panel on. There should be three of them, the rear ones are often quite difficult. Pull the bottom of the rocker outward, and be amazed at the mass of junk that falls out. Then run a wire brush or anything else you can get into the area over the side of the rocker, especially along the top of the jack post. Keep doing that until no more crap comes out. If you've never done this before, be prepared to be completely astonished at the amount and variety of crap that comes out.

--DD

[racejoe]

One of the things I like about Rass-O'-nil over the Metal Ready or others is that you don't rinse it with water after application. Just spray on, let dry, wipe of excess. It leaves a primer coating behind that you then topcoat with Zero-Rust, POR-15, epoxy primer or your favorite ice cream topping.



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Joe
74 Yellow 1.8L 914
72 Tangerine NoL 914
http://pages.sssnet.com/jkaull

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Actually, I don't know if you have to rinse the Ospho off or not. But it's pretty hard to wipe down the inside of the longitudinal...

--DD

[72_914]

I used the Eastwood Company corless paint to coat my 914. It was a very nice product, and it comes in a spray can. Like the rest of you we will see in another ten or so years if this stuff really works.

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James
Cincinnati, OH
1972 1.7L 914
www.geocities.com/montgomery.jp/914project.html

[72porsche914]

Thanks for the help everyone. One more question. Can I use a left side rocker panal and modify it to cover the right side?

Tim, do you have any pictures of it finished?

[TimW]

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to show my amateur welds to anyone , but okay, I’ll get some pics. Actually, most are now covered with a thin layer of [dare I say] bondo and POR-15 to fill in the cracks.