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HI guys, i am having a hard time getting responses from the 911 list guys.... So if you agree, id ask.
1)While checking my newly acquired 2.2T 1970, for my 6 conversion, i noticed that the chain tensioners were what i would call SOLID, a piece of metal where a bolt keeps the tension on the chain. Its from Pacific Design. Any thoughts about that? Should i replace with two tensioners i have as spares? They are #930.105.501.0R. What are they? 2) Silly one but then.. My Zeniths seem to be lacking something. On one side, they is an horizontal bar that pivots when you push the throttle, that bar pushes on three small buttons, to either let air or fuel in. Here is my silly one. That bar is missing from one side????? I guess that its not normal, but my sellet told me that the engine was running. I hardly see how unless that device is on one side only. If you have that part. let me know. 3) Whats the better way to loosen a stuck flywheel bolt? The ones that are on the outside edges of the flywheel, not in the center. Many thanks for helping me. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: SW PDX
Posts: 507
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Hello fellow conversion-ite.
The only thing I have a clue on (I may be totally off on this) is #1: the chain tensioners. I believe that the solid tensioners are okay -- as long as you're willing to adjust the tension with every valve adjustment (or, perhaps less often, I really don't know). . . The oly problem I can see is that there isn't going to be a whole lot of room in there for you wo work once the engine is in. BUT you know they won't fail unexpectedly! OR you could install the "regular" tensioners you have as spares and add chain tensioner guards. I'd be tempted to keep them until I could afford the pressure fed upgrade (if it's available). Pelican has both of these options. Good luck on the conversion and don't ask about broken exhaust studs! ![]() scg |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
Posts: 2,502
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To answer #3, I recommend some heat. This should loosen up the bolt. There is a prior post on the 911 BBS regarding this issue.
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Administrator
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For those of you who don't read the Rennlist board, I will summarize:
1) Solid tensioners are bad. They do not keep a certain amount of tension on the chain, but rather the amount changes as the engine warms up and cools down. This tends to result in excessvive chain & sprocket wear, as well as having way too much noise from the cam chains in many circumstances. 2) This is the accelerator pump actuating rod. You need it, but it can be hard to find one. 3) All of your favorite methods--heat, penetrating oil and beating, creative swearing... One person said that the bolt should come out easily after its head is cut off, unless it has been loc-tite'd into place. --DD |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: SW PDX
Posts: 507
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D'oh! (to #1 in my earlier reply)
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