1.8 vs. 2.0 swap, major questions

[sasquatch]

We have a pristine looking and running 74 with the 1.8. Runs fantastic, all stock, original, 103k miles. Heck, this thing does not use or even leak oil. The wife is begging me for more power in it (it is 'her' car, but I get to maintain it... ).

I was just given a complete 2.0 out of a 75. It is in pieces for a rebuild. Heads have been completely rebuilt. It ran, but smoked before pulling (a good friends car).

Ok, he has given me everything, from oil drian plug to the injection system, all computers, wiring harness, etc.

The delema:

Do I rebuild the 2.0, maybe add some over sized P&Cs, cam etc, and install that with the D-jet system. Then sell the perfect running complete 1.8.

-or-

Do I tear down the 1.8, install the 2.0 crank and rods, get some 2.0 or 2.0 big bore P&Cs, bore the case and heads, and build it up using the L-jet system I have?

-or-

Some other combination of the two...

Build considerations...

I do NOT want to convert to carbs. I am sick and tired of screwing with them for years. I like the simplicity of a good running injection system.

The motor must retain "stock" appearance.

I will sit back and await your collective suggestions.

[Tobra]

2056 is about as big as you can go with the stock d-jet injection. Jake Raby sells a kit to build one, 2.0 has superior heads, so that is going to be the better choice for the build up

[jamcleod]

in my opinion, if you have a running car i wouldn't tear into the engine of the running car. i'd refresh the 2.0 and when ready, do a switch but i wouldn't take a running car off the road. too long on jack stands without use during the prime driving time of the year. over winter might be a different response.

you could take the 2.0 down to a short block and assess the bottom end. refresh heads and p&c's and powdercoat the engine tin etc. i'm probably in the minority as to advise on the "rebuild" but i'm a CSOB and don't want to get into repairs too deeply. no doubt there are those who would take her all the way to the crank since it's out.

[tshih]

I have a 1974 1.8 stock with the engine running but noisy and poor idle, leaks oil due to bad seals. Have bought a 1975 2.0L parts car for the engine which I've stripped down to crank. I intend to rebuild back to stock 1973/4 spec with new Euro Mahle P/C (slightly higher compression over stock). I'm hoping for 95-100H.P. when done. New F.I. and rebuilt components (pressure sensor-grenade, etc when no new stock left). That's the way to go. The car is drivable and will be off road only when engine swap is needed. So far I've invested $2000 in core, rebuilt heads and con-rods and new P/C and parts. My goal is to have a "new rebuilt 2.0L for $3000 total budget".

[sasquatch]

Good points.

I think I will build a nice performance motor out of the 2.0, and wrap and crate up the 1.8 just in case I ever need to bring it back to stock.

That said. What carbs should I start looking for? Are 40 IDF's enough for a good motor up to about 2.3l or should I just go for 44's?

[galto]

Build considerations...

I do NOT want to convert to carbs. I am sick and tired of screwing with them for years. I like the simplicity of a good running injection system.

The motor must retain "stock" appearance.

Now what's this about carbs? I would stay away from them.
You aren't gona see good gains by building a bigger 2.0 w/ the stock injection, unless you feel very motivated to install something like a megasquirt, but that's a whole different can of worms.
I would swap out for the 2.0 after a good refresh. Make sure the bore is straight and round, check end play etc. new bearings all that good stuff and you should end up with a good strong runner.

[Bleyseng]

'bout 120hp is the limit it seems with Djet and a 2056.

ain't that enough or "good gains" over 95hp?

[galto]

IMHO just doesn't seem like a good idea to me to run the stock injection on a different sized engine without compensating some how. Just wasn't designed to run on it so I don't know the behavior of the system on a different layout, but if you have seen it work, great!

Anyway, did you remeasure the HP in DIN or SAE? I believe that the orig. number was measured in DIN.

[Bleyseng]

You must adjust the MPS using a wideband setup to correct the A/F mix. Other than that every stock using djet is fine.