2 liter crank with 1.7 liter heads

[Chigger]

I am trying to decide on an engine configuration with a good torque curve using stock parts. I like hill climbs and they are steep and curved.
The configuration I am looking at is using a 2 liter crank and rods in a 1.7L case with 1.7 P&Cs and heads. Basically a stroked 1.7.
Has anyone ever done this?

[Bleyseng]

I haven't ever looked a 1.7l dyno chart but a 2.0l's torque curve is flat as Nebraska from 2000 to 4500 rpm. The torque number is about 105 ft lbs. If you already have the 2.0l crank and rods why not bump up the displacement to 94mm Euro's. The 1.7 heads can be bored out to fit the 94's and bigger valves put in for better flow.
If you want even more torque put in a 78mm stroker crank.
Geoff

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76 914 2.0L

[JP Noonan]

2.0L crank only works with 2.0L P/C's or aftermarket P/C's. The wrist pin is in the wrong location.

[rmcelroy]

I'm wanting to build a simular engine to use on the street. It's mainly a budget thing, Chigger send me E-mail about how it goes.
Thanks

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I'll repeat what was said earlier--if you want a good torquey motor based on stock parts, a Euro-spec 2.0 is the way to go. It makes over 105 lb-ft all the way from 2500 RPM to 4500 RPM, with the peak of 108 coming in at 3500 RPM.

If you had custom rods made up, you could mate up a 2.0 crank to the 1.7 case, P&Cs, heads, etc. Otherwise, forget it.

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

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