2055cc Engine

[Eat-um-up]

Well i just lost my 2.0 today. I beleve i soun a rod. really wasnt planning on rebuilding an engine so soon but hey i guess it happens. I wanted to build a monster 2700cc but i just dont have the $$ do do it. heres what i have..
One complete 2.0 with sa spun rod or something from a VW Bus
and the old original 1.7
Since my funds are rather low and i have little choice but to rebuild i would like to use the 1.7 case with the 1.8 heads that are on the 2.0. I would also like to use the 2.0 crank, and 1.7 cam. is there a problem with doing that???? but in the end i want to build a 2055cc. is that just a matter of bigger pistons or do i need another cam for that?

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Sweet Blue 72' 914
Check it out at
http://www.geocities.com/eat_um_up/914.html

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

The 2.0 rods must be used with the 2.0 crank. Make sure the crank and rods are carefully checked, as you can damage them if you spin a rod bearing.

The 1.8 heads cannot reasonably be used with the 1.7 cylinders. The mating surface on the 1.8s is too wide, and the cylinders will "slop around" and sealing will be a problem. If you buy 1.8 P&Cs, 2.0 P&Cs, or the 96mm ones that are designed for a 2.0 (or the ones for a 1.8 if you wind up going with the 1.7 crank and rods) then you'll be fine.

The 1.7 cam should be OK. Use the lifters from the 1.7, unless they show any noticeable wear. At the very least, check the cam out before you decide to use it. Tom Wilson's rebuild book has pictures that are helpful. I'd be really tempted to buy a new cam and lifters regardless, as those do seem to wear on most Type IVs.

The cam grinds are just about identical (some small-ish differences as per Hugo from the Netherlands' page) for the non-Bus Type IVs. If you've got carbs, you can go with a more-aggressive cam and get some more "go" out of it.

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

[rmcelroy]

I am also in the process of planning a mutant 2.0ish motor, I have a 1.7 case, and some 1.8L heads coming my way-Dave, am I correct to understand that if I want to use the 1.8 heads and 2.0 crank/rods then I need to go with 96mm pistons for 2.0 instead of the 1.8's-does that help make up for the smaller combustion chamber of the 1.8's?

Thanks

[Eat-um-up]

Right. I plan on haveing my 2.0 crank checked and re ground if its damaged to save money. I would like to use my 1.7 cam becouse its iether a 914 cam, or its a carburated one. It is also a sloid lifter cam. The 2.0 cam is hydrolic. so what size cylenders do i need to buy to achive the 2055cc?? what brand or kind do you reccomend?

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Sweet Blue 72' 914
Check it out at
http://www.geocities.com/eat_um_up/914.html

[JP Noonan]

2.0L crank needs 2.0L rods and 2.0L pistons because the wrist pin height is different between the 2.0L and the 1.7/1.8L. It really doesn't have anything to do with combustion chamber size.

The 1.7L ("W" and "EA") blocks I have taken apart do not have windage tray bosses. So a windage tray would be useless in the block. The 1.8L 914-20L bus/914 blocks do have them.

Never had time to compare my "GE" 2.0L bus block to the rest, but I've heard theory that the lifter bore oil passages are different to feed the hydraulic lifters. I can say the bus block has some "beefed up" portions to it when compared to the 1.8L 914 blocks. The extra metal dosen't seem to really help anything, but I'm sure VW did it for a reason.

When reuseing a cam it is absolutly vital that you keep the lifters in the same order they were in before. Otherwise they will whipe out a cam lope or kill the lifter. A new set of lifters is only $30-$40.

Also there are different gear backlashes that corrispond to the case. So if the gears are different between cases you need to swap gears.

If I were you...check to see what you have. Inspect the case halfs for flatness and sealing. Have the crank and rods checked and then ground or re-sized. I'd chuck the cam and buy a new one. It is very hard to replace once it's in there. 96mm P/C's can be had through Pelican. Use the 1.8L Heads, but at least check the spring pressure, and better yet do a 3 angle valve job on the intakes, replace the exhaust valves, and replace all the valve guides. Tap the galley plugs for threaded plugs instead of the freeze plugs that tend to pop out. Clean everything until you can eat off it, then clean it again. Use plasti-gauge and do a number of mock assemblies to make sure everything is in good shape. Don't skimp on the german seals and Loc-tite case sealer. Brazian bearings and RTV are a sure way to have oil leaks.

Finally: BUY TOM WILSON'S BOOK. Hell buy three, one for the shop, one for the bathroom, and one for boring days at the office.

[SteveStromberg]

With 2.0 914 US pistons (8cc dish),2.0 rods (50mm,24mm),1800 heads 50cc chambers, 1.5 mm deck height you will have 8.2 to 1. comp.Steve

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Formula time:

Displacement = #_of_cylinders * stroke * (bore/2) * (bore/2) * 3.1415926...

If all your measurements are in mm (typical), you'll have to divide the final number by 1000 to get cc.

Result: 2055cc is 71 bore by 96 stroke.

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

[SteveStromberg]

For those of you in Rio Linda try here.
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/specgeninfo/calcs.htm
Steve

[Eat-um-up]

thanks for all your help!!

[rmcelroy]

Thanks Steve.