Head temp sensor

[Martinn]

What is the best method of changing out the head temp sensor that won't break the lead?
Hope this will staighten my FI problems.

[HMeeder]

What I did is to curl the lead around a screwdriver to create a pig tail. Tuck the connector inside the 'curley-que'. Then take a 13mm deep socket and by spinning with your fingers as you lower it over the sensor, you should be able to get the the 'pig tail' to curl up inside the socket without breaking the lead. Due to heat and age, those tend to get brittle.

BTW I have found that the CHT has great effect on the way the FI runs. In my '72 I have run 4 different ones and each has produced a significant difference in the way the car runs. This sensor's feedback is what tells the ECU how rich to run the motor. To control my mixture, I went to Radio Shack and got a 1K potentiometer and soldered it to a pair of connectors and put it in line with the CHT. This effectively gives me complete control over the richness. My last CHT was causing the car to run lean. By manually adjusting the Pot I eliminated my slight acceleration stumble and the 'popping' I was getting on deceleration. Be aware that be doing this I have altered the fuel system and would most likely be violating So Cal's smog laws, but for the fact that the '72 is exempt. Your state may have their own opinion, and I would check before heading for the smog station with it in place.

Motor On!

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Herb
'72 1.7 Tangerine 'Teen
'74 2.0 Red Rustmobile

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

A deep six-point 13mm socket, 3/8" drive, with a short (~3"?) extension. Take the extension to a bench grinder and grind off part of one corner of the square that goes into the socket.

Then you can slide the socket onto the wire, and plug the extension into the socket, with the wire exiting through the ground-off corner.

I have also used deep 13mm sockets with notches cut. I like the cut-down extension idea better.

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling