Help ! Broke rear-lid roller...

[Xerxez]

My plastic roller for the rear lid finally broke and the metal spring fell off the roller. How do I get the new metal roller back on and the spring back in place?
I opened the rear-lid and heard a nasty sound. Thank goodness nothing looks like it's damaged.
Thanks,

Xerxez

[retro74]

Cool and easy trick...
I just put the metal rollers in the rear trunk and the spring is very hard to move. In fact, our friends on this bulletin board warn that it is a danger to your physical health. Some people have made clamp on tools, but this way is soooooo simple...

First, be safe, sane and careful. I used leather gloves and pliers to touch the old and new rollers to keep myself safe and I wore wrap around shop goggles as well.

Second, this method assumes that the weld on the rear trunk hinge (against the fenderwell) is in good condition.

Get a piece of 2 x 4 that is @ 6-7" long. The 4" width will be used to stop the spring while the length will simply spread the load over the vent area. Open the engine lid and the rear trunk. Next, wedge the 2 x 4 (4" portion placed against the side of the engine bay fenderwell) between the spring end and the upper part of the metal vent. Do one side at a time. Next, slowly close the rear trunk until the spring stops against the 2 x 4. Inspect the fit against the edge of the 2 x 4 and make sure it is a tight fit with the least possibility of any slippage. Just a little more movement of the rear trunk and the spring will be trapped by the edge of the 2 X 4 being pressed against the metal vent area. Since the metal vent mount is welded to the bodywork, this will hold while your gently and carefully remove the plastic roller. Don't move the trunk and use the pliers to insert the metal replacement roller. Raise the trunk slowly to release.

Do the other side with the same caution, care, paranoia and safety.

Lube the roller and spring contact areas and hinge pivots with white lithium grease. I used Finish Line bicycle lubricant first, since my hinges were a bit rusty in the pivots and pivot strap areas. But after towling that stuff off, I used the Lithium grease and not a squeek has been heard since.

Good Luck
\Joe

[This message has been edited by retro74 (edited 08-28-2001).]

[Xerxez]

THanks for the help, Joe! However, I have an additional problem. The spring completely came off the roller and the problem is getting the spring into position to do what you describe.
Xerxez

[norustscott]

my way is a bit more dangerous...gloves glasses...blah blah....I used a 3/8" craftsman 9 inch extension. Slip the extension over the end of the spring/bar. It will only go on about a 1/2 inch or so. Use this as a lever to push down on the spring while your very trusting best friend..(I use my younger brother)...to slip on the lubed roller. Once done, simple allow the spring to return to rest on the roller...Like I said it takes team work adn nerve but should take less than a minute...lsg

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Retro, that's one of those "That's so simple, why didn't I see it myself?" flashes of brilliance. This one's going in my keeper file--thanks!!

--DD

------------------
Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

[Xerxez]

Thanks all! The new metal rollers are now safely in place and is working just fine.
Xerxez