|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Mpls., MN
Posts: 61
|
FYI-
I remember seeing a couple posts on replacing the rear brake lines. If you haven't done this, it is kind of a hard place to reach. Tools are the secret here, like most things the proper tools make the job go easier. Sears (Craftsman) has some tools that work great for this project. This first in nothing special, flare nut wrenches, the ones that I purchased were polished and shorter than the less expensive set, the key is short. Also another tool the has helped is a crow foot wrench set. These are like taking an open end wrench and cutting it off at the base with a 3/8 socket drive. To loosen the upper part of the brake hose use the 11mm flare nut wrench on the fitting and take the 17mm crow foot with a long extension and loosen the fitting. I can't imagine doing this without the crow foot wrenches. These also work well for removing the distributor hold down clamp. The hardest part of the rear brake line removal is removing the dam clip, I used a small vise grip and alot of cursing. Have fun, Tom |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Suntree, Florida, USA
Posts: 2,261
|
Once you get really tired of not being able to get any torque on the wrench...try loosening the hard brake line back at the brake bias valve on the firewall. It took me two hours to figure out that was the only way i was going to get the old rubber lines off so I could install my new DOT SS lines! Went super quick after that!!! As for that clip... well I have learned how to curse in German for occasions like that!!
|
||
|
|
|