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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 886
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Dear Doctors:
Most of the parts of my 2.0 are out at the machinist, and for a variety of reasons, here's where I've ended up: stock crank and rods (I have a spare set BTW) all rotating parts precision balanced 96mm p&C new stock rod bolts 2.0 heads, 44mmX36mm valves, ported, cc'd etc total bottom end rebuild oil galleys plugged, new oil pressure relief pistons. haven't looked at the oil pump yet. I've got complete working D-jet and the appropriate (new) cam and lifters that I won't necessarily use - I'm under the impression that this is now my hp bottleneck. At this point I need to reach a decision about induction and ignition, and I am on a budget. I want to maximize the hp available given what I have invested in the long block and I really don't like the 'feel' of the stock engine. With the stock crank, I can't build a real 'revver'. (not that I'd really want to) I guess I want a car that is more about vroom than chugga chugga. ![]() Anyone been here before? What should I do? Any suggestions about cam, induction, and ignition would be really appreciated. (BTW, for those following my earlier posts, I'm still investigating subaru FI) Many TIA - |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Los Angeles,Ca. USA
Posts: 641
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Hi Dave,
I'd run the WCAM 152 and the lifters that we have listed along with a set of Weber 44 IDFs. Finally, I'd use the Bosch 050 distributor with the Pertronix conversion installed. I think you'll be a happy camper. ------------------ 72'914 John@pelicanparts.com |
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I'd agree, that unless you need to keep the d-jet go with the above recomendation.
To keep the d-jet with those heads and displacement you'll need a near stock cam, a bored out throttle body, and a lot of experimentation with the MPS and fuel pressure. Idealy done by a shop on a dyno. Not saying it can't be done (it would be beyond my ability) , but the lumpy cam and carbs are a better/easier way to go. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Corpus Christi Tx
Posts: 155
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If you go with the Pertronics you will need 2 because one will fail. The Crane Cam unit is the best unit for the money.
Doug |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 886
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Thanks guys. I kind of suspected that the simplest way would be the best.
I don't need d-jet for emissions or anything, so perhaps I'll swap that with some Californian for a mint set of Del 40s or Weber 44's... Any takers? I'll look up that webcam - I have a chance to trade my FAT440HP cam for a eurorace P-grind, perhaps that's a new post. I wonder what the QA problem is with Pertronix? Thanks again - just gotta find the carbs! |
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In defense, there's no real QA problem with the Pertronix unit.
There are some individuals who had problems with units "failing" for one reason or another; I've been running the same one for about 2 years (first on a 009, than moved to a 050 distributor) with no problems noted. I'll trust it over points any day, and it's very well priced (average: $65). I just couldn't see paying a lot more for the other solutions available. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Los Angeles,Ca. USA
Posts: 641
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Hi Dave,
I agree with Rouser, my Pertronix unit has been working flawlessly. The only time I've seen them come back is when the installer crosses the wires on installation and burns the unit out. Pertronix a few years ago did have a problem with bad units, However as of late, I haven't heard or seen any come in bad. The only hang up with any optical (or LED) style pick-up ignition kit is that they are very sensitive to voltage spikes and they do go out more so than the magnetic pick-up style. Dave, what are the cam specs on that P grind cam from Eurorace that you're checking on? ------------------ 72'914 John@pelicanparts.com |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 886
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Does the crane offer any other benefit, or is it the same functionally?
You know, if the Pertronix are are being killed by spikes, a cheap protection circuit could probably be designed. I'll look into that. Doug, how did yours fail? John, Re that cam - I don't know anything about it. A friend has it still in the box and I have that FAT FI cam ditto, so he's willing to trade. I measured the lift (I think) using my dial gauge and rotating the cam in a case half, and the eurorace measured out at .430 vs (from memory) .290 and .270 for FAT HP440 and stock (worn) respectively. I note that that is around the same lift as the Webcam that you suggested earlier. This cam appears to be ground on smaller base circles. I don't have a method to accurately measure the duration. On the shoptalk forums a search revealed a few posts mentioning wear/reliability problems with Eurorace hyd. cams. |
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> The only hang up with any optical (or LED) style pick-up ignition kit is
> that they are very sensitive to voltage spikes... Aaay-men on that one! My Crane really really hates low voltage. Anecdote time: My alternator failed, back when I was still running points. I was able to drive another hour to get (almost) all the way home. The car just kept running off of the dead battey, with the voltmeter dropping lower and lower and lower. Any use of any light--turn signal, brake light, etc., would kill the engine, but it would come back if I left it in gear and turned the light off. It finally died, with the voltmeter reading about 8, when I could not avoid a stop-light. After I installed the Crane, there was one occasion when the voltage regulator unplugged itself. The battery was not charging, and there was no alternator warning light to tell me that. (Oops.) The car started running crappy about halfway home, and that quickly deteriorated until it was obvious I was not getting a spark more often than I was. I coasted off the freeway, found the VR problem, and then got a jump-start. No ignition problems at all after that. My Crane, at least, really hates low voltage situations. --DD ------------------ Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Corpus Christi Tx
Posts: 155
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I have had 2 Pertronix systems, the first one worked great. I bought one for the 914 and it was bad out of the box.Then people in the club started talking about all the failures with pertronics and how reliable the crane unit was.I bought the Crane unit,it delivers more spark and can work @ a higher rpm(not that I need it ).I would still buy the Pertronix unit, it is a lot easier to install and a good unit.They are all better than points! I hate to change points!
OK how many of you Pertronix users carry points in the glove box?....... come on be honest. Doug |
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