Front suspension quirks.....

[farleyd]

I have a strange problem with my front suspension. I have renewed the stock bushings with polyplastic (Weltmeister) ones. Also installed a sotck sway bar with new bushings.

The problem is that the car is very hard to depress (up and down) and that:
- it stays (height) wherever i place it by hands
- even when jumping two feets on the front bumper, it hardly moves
- its make a big thunk (noise) whenever it moves

Could it be:
1) poly bushings
2) torsion bars
3) struts
4) sway bar

Speaking of torsion bar, what it the settings that anyone uses when putting back the torsion bar cover stopper on the torision splines?

Thanks for helping

[Jim Smolka]

How did you disassemble the suspension to install the bushings.

If you removed the big nut on the bottom of the ball joint, check to see that it is properly seated. The ball joint and the arm are notched.

It may be that the bushings are binding. Not sure, what size torsion bars are you using. Also, it could be the adj on the t-bars needs to be set (could be bottomed out)

[farleyd]

Thanks Jim for replying. I have not dissambled the ball joints. I greased the bushings as suggested. Those are the stock torsion bars. I took care not to swap them.

I am thinking that with all of the new bushings making resistance - the time they worn a bit - it may stiffen the suspension.

Ive tried every possible combination when replacing the adjusting cap on the torsion bars:
- arm dowm, arm up, arm in the middle. It makes a difference in the height, ive set it up to the specs - ± 235mm from the center of the torsion bar to the ground. But still, its not moving that much and it makes strange noise.

I am clueless. I am thinking unbolting the sway just to see.

What is doing most of the suspension front; torsion bars or struts?

Thanks again.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

If you're asking what keeps the car up off the ground, it's the torsion bars. They are the springs for the front end. The struts serve two purposes only--they help to locate the outer end of the A-arm, and they serve to dampen the oscillations of the A-arm (and wheel and tire and such).

Something suspended by a spring, and having no damping at all, will bounce up and down and up and down for a while after going over any bump. (Hang a weight from a lightweight spring and check for yourself.) The "shock absorbers" resist movement somewhat, and so will cause these oscillations to damp out very quickly.

Best guess I have is that the A-arms are binding up in their new bushings. Were the bushings a really tight fit onto the A-arms, or in their carriers? If so, perhaps some sanding is in order.

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

[Doug M]

I made the same mistake and didnt install grease fittings. After all the grease went away it was "bind city". The car would actually hop in a turn. I also had to sand them to get a little clearence.
Weltmiester should put that in the instructions that they dont come with.
Iwas pretty excited about doing the front end twice as I know you will be. I did the rear also but they are not a problem .. yet
Doug

[farleyd]

Well guys, i think weve found it. I had to use a press to fit the bushings. No wonder why its stuck as we speak.

I put grease. Is there a chance that after a while, the bushings will worn a bit?

Do i REALLY have to take that out again?????

Thanks for helping.

www.farleydw.com/914.html

[efeinsmith]

Hate to ask this, but you did make sure that the correct bushing went into the proper end of the a-arm, because they are different in size, though just slightly.

[farleyd]

Yes i did, they were marked with front/rear signs.

I go with the binding bushings answer for my problem. Can someone say if i can expect them to wore a bit?

Thank.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Well, if they're not moving at all, it would be a bit difficult for them to wear very much. At least, not for a good long time....

--DD

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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

[DDS]

Hi Sabin:

Did you mangle, even slightly, the collars in which the bushings sit? It is easy to get them slightly out of round when prying to remove a fused-in old rubber bushing. that makes it really stiff. Ask me how I know... I wrecked one, but luckily (like you) had my original 914 front to scavenge, so no problem. The bushings turn comfortably by hand when installed, and you should be able to install and remove the bushings in the collars by hand. If you have it apart, you might want to add grease zerks - its a quick job.



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-- Dave
Pics of my '73 project here: http://members.tripod.com/mike4g/dds73_b4pics.htm

[farleyd]

As i said, i had to rely on a press to insert them, so in no way i could turn them by hand. Its probably the reason why its so stiff.

As Dave suggested, i had to heat and pry to remove the old one, and probably i ruined one of the caveat....

Well, i have to take the 914 to a local garage for a thruout revision of what i did myself - i am paranoiac if you ask: brakesm suspension, headers, etc.

Ill have them dismantle and see what they say.

Thanks to all helping me locate the problem.

[ovilla]

Quick question on Zerk fittings. I'm installing a 19mm front sway bar this weekend and am planning on using zerk fittings. My questions is this. Should the zerk fitting be installed in such a way that it goes through the outer metal part and through the polygraphite bushings and just far enough so that it doesn't make contact with the actual inner metal sway bar? Or, should the zerk fitting only penetrate the outer metal piece and thus allow for greasing between the outer metal and the bushing. Or, should both sizes of zerk fittings be installed. I'm also wondering if the bushing itself needs to be dremmeled a bit to create a channel for the grease to flow around the bushing itself. I'm not sure as to where possible binding noise will occur, in the inner or outer part of the bushing. Either way, I don't want to have to take the sway bar apart later on. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

[DDS]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum2/HTML/003148.html

that's what I did.



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-- Dave
Pics of my '73 project here: http://members.tripod.com/mike4g/dds73_b4pics.htm

[farleyd]

OK here is an update for this topic.

ITS CONFIRMED!!!!! The Welmeister polygraphite bushings have to be sanded internally with a grinder or hand-sanded to allow free course on the A-Arms. Afterso, he problems disapeared instantly.

Someone should say Weltmeister about that.