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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: chula vista
Posts: 11
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Adjusting Valves
Hi guys,
I check my 1.8 valves clearance for 1st time and found out a lot , I adjust it and the nut went level to the top of the valve adjustment screw, to the max, compared to new screws there's only about 1 MM smaller, I pull the rocker arm and move more giving more clearance so I adjusted another gain to .006mm is this the right way? Or maybe my push rods are wear out, or the lifters? thanks. Pedro |
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914 Geek
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I'm not sure I understand what you're asking...
That said, are you sure you did the adjustment correctly? Did you set each cylinder to TDC to adjust that cylinder's valves? Or did you do the "adjust the opposite valve to the one that's openb" method? --DD
__________________
Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: chula vista
Posts: 11
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Hi,
I follow up the TDC on each cylinder to adjust as described here on the 914 technical, found out that I have hydraulic lifters, that's why I was able to compress the push rods and have more clearance ( with solid lifters you can't) and I was having very noisy lifters, then follow up hydraulic procedure, but I still have noisy lifters and a bad noise when I rev up more or get off the pedal, steady rpm no bad noise, I need to let it oil charge and do another gain the adjusting that I haven't done, till I saw today more info http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/hydral.htm found also this other useful info http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/hydraulicll.htm . The only thing that bother me is that I have this click and moves more in push rod, maybe is when it seats with the lifter? it only makes this in 2 or 3 push rods. Pedro Last edited by pedrokim; 07-27-2008 at 12:34 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,711
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How much is the car driven? We had hydraulic lifters in our 1974 and they lasted nearly 10 years before a rod broke and destroyed the engine. I found that if the car wasn't driven at least every few days the lifters would clatter for a while when starting and then finally quiet down. I also found they liked Mobile 1 5-50 synthetic oil best of any we tried which was a bad as my race car. Good thing Walmart sells it in 5 qt jugs! Anyways there are also a lot of engines that have a hydraulic cam put in and the case is not modified for them so they'll always rattle as they seem to never get pumped up.
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: chula vista
Posts: 11
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Quote:
I just put in 30 weight oil, I am going for the lighter weight, will start the engine and let it for 20 or more minutes and then adjust the valves, maybe tomorrow and see what happens, I don't use the car very often, the noise went bad since I adjust the valves like if it had solid lifters. Hope it gets better with new oil and valve check. Thanks Pedro |
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Registered
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Hey Pedro-
I have hydraulic lifters/ cam on my car. If you crank them down too far, the lifter will NOT pump up- no oil goes in. I suggest you readjust. When you are loosening the adjuster screw, do it in a back and forth movement- like loosen 1/2 turn then turn the screw about 1/4 back in, then out again a few times. Right now, probably none of the oil reservoirs in the lifters have much oil, and the port is blocked in the lifter because the whole thing is too tight. When the oil finally flows in, it will get stiff doing the loose/tight thing. Back those adjuster screws out until there is no resistance to retightning. Go two full turns past the point of resiatance. If the screws are still all the way down, the lifters may be dead. The oil piston is held in by a wire retaining clip that was GONE on three of my hydro lifters. On one of them, the top, hardened peice that meets the pushrod was also gone. That one was very noisy. DON'T USE 30 wt OIL! It is too thin. It is not difficult to pull the lifters and replace them- or at least unstick them. |
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