Checking control arm - Any ideas?

[3D914]

I'd like to know if there is a jig, plans for one, or someone who provides this service, that can check the alignment of the rear control arm on the 914.

I have what I suspect is a bent control arm, but whould like to verify this first. I'd also like to be able to check any used one I might find. Any ideas woud be appreciated.

Many thanks,




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Gerard
74-914 2.0L
3D914
rodrigos6@juno.com

[JP Noonan]

The control arms IMPO are very stout. Any rear end alignment problems can be traced to; bad bushings, tweeked rear suspension consoles from rust, or track time in a 914 without the frame re-inforcement kit and at least a 2.7L six or a V-8 conversion.

That being said there are two maybe three frame jigs for the 914 in this country and those are in California. That is the only be-all end-all solution. Other than that use the 914 frame dimensions diagrams on this site to cross refernce your frame.

[Conrad W Peden]

On the otherhand, JP, I put my 72 sideways into a curb at about 30 mph and the only damage was the control arm.

A friend of mine ,who just happens to own a frame shop, said the suspension points were right where they were supposed to be.

The control arm was twisted 15 degrees, but the points were fine. That was 4 years ago and no sign of cracks etc.

This leads me to believe that the control arms are in fact weak. At least more prone to twist rather than bending.

Oh yeah the rim was mashed too.

As far as checking the control arm I would say that previous damge would have been adjusted out with shims. If there is an excess of shims at the mounts this could be evidence of a bent arm. If there is rust near the suspension points you may need to dig further.



[This message has been edited by Conrad W Peden (edited 10-20-2001).]

[Joe Bob]

If you have boxed your control arms...and did not take care to keep them from warping....THAT can be a problem....ask me how I know....

[3D914]

Thanks for the feedback,

Here a some further details:
The right rear had slight positive camber, and the left rear has proper negative camber. Upon investigating, I found that the left has three 3mm shims and one 2mm shim. The right had one 3mm shim. I removed the right side's shim, and now the camber is slightly negative and equivalent with the left.

Since adding any shims to the right would continue to add positive camber, I'm suspecting the control arm is bent. Or worst yet, the mounting points. I checked all and there is only partial light surface rust on right side - nothing serious. I did notice a slight shape difference between the metal making up the left & right inner mounting points (you know the ones that get in your way when trying to remove the engine). This may be a designed difference, as visually the actual points appear to be symetrically in line, but I have yet to make actual measurements.

So you're saying I'll have to drive to So Cal to have these jigged and checked. Hey, that ain't so bad - its better than driving to Albuquerque. When's the next California swap meet?

Thanks all,


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Gerard
74-914 2.0L
3D914
rodrigos6@juno.com

[Conrad W Peden]

The points can look fine and still be rusted.

There is alot of undercoat there to hide stuff, i stripped my resto to bare metal from the dash back.

How is your battery tray, ever been replaced? Got FI, whats hiding under the brain? Is the fuel pump still securely attached?


I hate to be a bummer but sometimes ya just got to dive in and find the worst of it now before it becomes a real problem.

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CWP/VIR
72 914 L20E in rusto.
73 914 L20E 2.0L in resto.
a914lover73@hotmail.com

[3D914]

Conrad,

I went thru the engine bay when I had the engine out for rebuilding. The battery tray had already been reworked by a PO. The fuel pump area secure, and the firewall area was very clean - no rust except some surface rust at the lower lip where all the wires, cables sit.

I was thinking about replacing the bushings, but it occurred to me that this would make the current condition worst (read; more positive camber) - agree?

Thanks,


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Gerard
74-914 2.0L
3D914
rodrigos6@juno.com

[philinjax]

Originally posted by Conrad W Peden:
On the otherhand, JP, I put my 72 sideways into a curb at about 30 mph and the only damage was the control arm.

A friend of mine ,who just happens to own a frame shop, said the suspension points were right where they were supposed to be.

The control arm was twisted 15 degrees, but the points were fine. That was 4 years ago and no sign of cracks etc.

This leads me to believe that the control arms are in fact weak. At least more prone to twist rather than bending.

Oh yeah the rim was mashed too.

As far as checking the control arm I would say that previous damge would have been adjusted out with shims. If there is an excess of shims at the mounts this could be evidence of a bent arm. If there is rust near the suspension points you may need to dig further.
A 30 mph slam is expected to bend or break something. The fact that the chassis pick up points didn't shift is good news. Notwithstanding, missalignment of the rear
suspension is nearly always caused by a rotten suspension console or wallowed out mounting holes, not the trailing arm. For all practical purposes, the trailing arms are about as bendable and flexible as a concrete block. The exception is an instant sideways slam from 30 mph into an unmoveable object.

[This message has been edited by Conrad W Peden (edited 10-20-2001).]

[JP Noonan]

check this out, are you in GA?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596888299

[3D914]

JP,

Thanks. I saw this earlier today. I'm in Phoenix, but I have already sent him an email with some questions. I just have no way of testing the used control arm to verify its straightness, unless I build a temporary jig or send it to So Cal.

Regards,


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Gerard
74-914 2.0L
3D914
rodrigos6@juno.com