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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Smethport, pa
Posts: 15
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wont roll over
well i finaly got the valves all working right and i was happy. then i had to work on it some more and now it wont even start just wrrrwrrrrwrrrr. i put in a new coil, it worked fine. i went to put in a new condensor, i took the distributor out, but forgot about marking it, and for some dumb reason i loosened it up before i took it out witch rotated the distributor. i put every thing back to gether hooked up the wires and wrrrrwrrrwrrr. just my luck i declared, any suggestions for realigning the distributor? i had adjusted it turn the key and it almost started, then went back to the wrrrwrrwrr and also gave me a dead battery after continuos rotation of the distributor tring to find a spot it would start in , replaced the battery but to no avail....help
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11-01-2001, 12:48 PM
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It not that hard. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke,NOTE: the TDC "0" will show in the timing window for both TDC compression and exhaust stokes. Watch for the intake valve to close or I force my finger near the spark plug hole to feel for the air being forced out of the cylinder. Now rotate the distributor body so that the rotor points towards the notch on the top edge of the body where the cap sits. Pull the coil lead from the cap and secure it to ground. Place a test light on the distributor lead of the coil and ground it. Turn the ignition on and rotate the distributor body so that the points block is on the leading side of the #1 lobe and bring it up the lobe to the point where the points break contact and the test light goes out. You will now be a 0 degrees timing and the engine should start. Let it warm up and time the engine according to your setup.
Double check my lead hookups for static timing with a test light, its been awhile since I have done it and I don't have a book in front of me to confirm. ------------------ Chris 75 914 2.0L [This message has been edited by roadtrp204 (edited 11-01-2001).] |
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11-01-2001, 01:45 PM
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Double checked with my book. Clip one end of test light to distributor side of coil and ground the other side. I do need to correct that the light will come on when the points break not go out.
 ------------------ Chris 75 914 2.0L |
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11-01-2001, 06:34 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Smethport, pa
Posts: 15
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ahh i fried my condesor and point wires!! so it'll be a coule days before i can go at it again. thanks for the help roadtrp204, do you know if the rotor is supposed to turn when you twist the distributor body? As it sounded " Now rotate the distributor body so that the rotor points towards the notch on the top edge of the body where the cap sits", its like the rotor is supposed to stand still while you rotate the distributor?so let me get this straight i pull the dist./coil wire from the distributor end attach a testlight, ground the testlight, turn on the ign, and rotate the distributor until the light comes on. Am i understanding this right?thanks once again
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11-02-2001, 09:10 AM
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The coil will discharge when you break the points with the ignition on! You ground the high voltage wire from the coil, this is to keep you from getting zapped (tape the brass end that went into the cap to the fan housing). The test light lead hooks up to the same low voltage terminal that the distributor is going to (little green wire) and ground the other end of the light. The rotor is connected to the crank and should only turn if the engine is being turned. Rotor turns clockwise so move the body counter-clockwise to simulate rotor movement or to advance timing.
------------------ Chris 75 914 2.0L |
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11-02-2001, 09:32 AM
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1975 Porsche 914 2.0L
