Metal fuel lines through tunnel

Tobra · Tobra's Garage

I Will be doing this soon, hopefully, and have been thinking, would it be beneficial to stick something between the fuel line and the floor of the tunnel?

I figure it does not matter which is harder. You don't want the gas to start spewing out, as it is under a fair amount of pressure and I can't imagine a hole in a rust prone car ever being a good thing.

Perhaps a little piece of some sort of durable rubber, what do you think?

red-beard · red-beard's Garage

I had planned this for the blond, but never eneded up doing it. I did help Mike95125 aka Dr. Evil do this to his car.

I think used a brake line for the feeds, and then surrounded it in a loose fit with rubber hose. It wasn't so much for protection, as the "banging around" sound.

Mike wanted tubing all the way, so I used a tubing bender and made him a line all the way up. The easier way to bend it properly is to use a piece of coat hanger. Use the coat hanger to make a solid picture of the run. Then bend the tubing to match. I think this is over kill. All you want is to get the fuel line in the passenger compartment into a way that will never burst.

Just run your steel lines through the compartment, then use rubber fuel line with hose clamps once you are on the engine side of the fire wall. Do the same thing on the fuel tank side. If it hasn't be mentioned before, make sure you have a lot of extra fuel line in the front, so that you do not have to cut the fuel lines everytime you remove the tank.

Which 914 do you have?

Tobra · Tobra's Garage

'74 2.0

John Rogers · 07-05-2009, 05:33 PM

You should be able to buy 6 foot long pieces of stainless brake line at a good auto supply place like a large NAPA store as many of the small shops don't carry long lengths. I would suggest opening the tunnel and pulling the fuel tank and if you have the stock FI system then you'll need multiple lines. If you have carbs then only one. I would suggest a couple of clamps and sheet metal screws to hold the lines down onto the tunnel floor so they do not interfere with the cables or shifter. There will be a slight bend at the front where the lines exit the bulkhead and when I did mine I used some coated wire as a guide to help the front get out and I actually inserted the solid one from the rear. When the tube was about even with the shifter I inserted the wire from the front and used some tape to keep the pieces together. Make sure to flush it well with carb cleaner once it is in place to get any dirt out. As James said, use at least 2 hose clamps where the tubing connect to the hard line(s) for safety.

regency · regency's Garage

Check CFR, Tangerine Racing Products 860-647-8719, they sell stainless steel replacement fuel line kits. They're pre bent and ready to go, come withgood directions.

I just bought a set for my '73 2.0 FI but still need to do the job. I paid $135. for the kit.

Tobra: I'm in Sacramento, I'd be happy to assist if you end up doing the switch on your 914. You'll need to remove the fuel tank as per CFR's directions.

Steve

J2Hanson · 07-08-2009, 06:37 AM

Tobra, I bought a short coil of 5/16" stainless tubing from Summit and flared the ends myself for my 914 racer. I slipped a short piece of fuel hose over the tubing where it comes through the chassis and where I fastened in the tunnel so it wouldn't rattle. It's fairly ridged material so I can't imagine this chaffing and wearing through. It's been in there five years and no noise or wear marks. Good luck.