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Performance difference between 1.7 and 2.0 liter cars
Hi guys - we currently have a 924S and I'm starting to look at a couple 914s and am wondering how big of a performance different the later 2.0 makes.
Is it worth holding out for a 2.0 car or is body condition, even if a 1.7 spec engine comes with it, more important. Not trying to be a jerk towards 1.7 owners, just looking for info. Any coaching for me? Thanks! |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 921
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Pre smog 2.0L is the best, performance wise. The '73 2.0 is considered the best /4 by many. '75/'76 have less power.
I've driven them all from stock 1.7/1.8/2.0 to custom big /4 to stock /6 to my current 3.6 /6 ... Some of my best memories are driving the stock 1.7. Once you figure out how to keep the momentum up, you can get into plenty of trouble with just 80hp ... The biggest problem for any 914 is rust. Find the best tub you can afford and worry about the motor later. ![]() PS: Did i mention RUST?
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>> 1970, 914-6, 3.6L (Conversion) >> 1970, 914-6, #374 (Original) >> 1975/73, 914 Limo (Custom) |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,347
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I had a '70 1.7 and, well, with removing the spare and floormats, it weight just under 2000lbs (1990 with a full tank of fuel) and was rated at 80hp (US).
My '76 2.0 was rated at 86hp and weighed 2200lbs. iirc, a '73-'74 2.0 was rated at 95hp (US). But the '73+ cars were also a little heavier (thicker panels, more sound deadening etc). In the end, imho, its the BODY condition that is more important than the 1.7 v 2.0 debate. you can always swap in a 2.0 into a 1.7 car if you really want a few more hp.
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1970 914-6 Past: 2000 Boxster 2.7, 1987 944, 1987 924S 1978 911SC, 1976 914 2.0, 1970 914 w/2056 |
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Actually, the 95 hp rating was DIN. The US (SAE) rating was 91.
Yea, I'm a geek.
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1974 914 2.0 1980 911 SC 2002 996 Cabrio 2000 Silverado 2011 Golf |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Derby City KY
Posts: 2,513
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Quote:
Did he say RUST....the absoulute most important thing is as rust free a body as you can find..peroid!
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John |
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Thanks guys - it has been, if predictable perhaps, very disappointing to see how many local cars are advertised as "rust free" when they have holes in the floor.
This car, for instance, has large chunks of bondo getting pushed out by rust underneath the bondo and a couple baseball size holes in the driver floor; 1975 914 Porsche 1.8L Seller isn't a bad guy, but it bugs me when "rust free" has become a lazy person's way of advertising a car.... Last edited by tdskip; 05-25-2010 at 07:47 AM.. |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Derby City KY
Posts: 2,513
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If I see the term "rust free" in an ad ...(I may hurl too)
I equated that to.. "this thing has rust everywhere and has been covered up with a new paint job and cool wheels and I am hiding it and I am trying to unload this rusty thing because I didn't know how rusty it was when I bought it and paid too damn much for it" ....I have seen so many of them this way....everyone of them has rust...they were built rusty...no galvanizing at all.....the best are those with the least amount of rust....don't go for the bargain unless you are just looking for parts and then it is fine to buy a rusty one just don't pay the going rate for a good one...Everbody learns this with there first 914 the rule is just keep looking...there were thousands of them made and there are still "barn finds" to be had... Good luck on the search...keep looking...they are great little cars!
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John |
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No, "rust free" means they are giving YOU the rust for free.
I am selling my yellow 70 car with a 2098cc carbed motor. Welded in roll bar tied to rear shock towers. Need shocks up front, Good 225/50-15 rubber on diamond wheels Fiberglass GT flares. Couple rough spots but no holes. Engman long kit. 3500.00 |
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