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Registered
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 28
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nicking reverse
Every once in awhile I nick reverse when shifting from 1st to 2nd. I cringe and swear a lot when I do this. Aside from being more mindful (always a good idea) is there anything that can be done to make it less likely to happen? A mechanical adjustment perhaps or a stronger spring?
Thanks. |
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Stay away from my Member
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Agoura, CA
Posts: 5,773
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I suspect your stock shifter springs are worn out. Even a stock 901 5spd shifter should have some significant resistance when pushing the lever into the 1st/Rev plane.
Yep, there a Weltmeister kit with heavier springs. Pelican carries it AFAIK.
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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try this first
When you get all the shift boot covers off and such then loosen the binder bolt one the shift rod. Don't move it much just one tooth at a time till you get suffienct spring pressure to keep you out of reverse.
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It's an 'in-cockpit' adjustment
Jeff;
If your bushings are crapped out, this could be the source of your problems, particularly if you have a tailshifter. They have somewhat sloppy shift linkages to begin with. Make sure you have fresh bushings before making the following adjustments. (You can try the adjustments, but may find that you no longer nick reverse, but have problems going into 4th. The bushings are pretty cheap to replace, but will necessitate all these adjustments after you are done.) Your problem also may be worn springs, but as Joe suggests, I would attempt to adjust the shifter throw first. It's actually one of the easier adjustments you can make to the car. Pull your center tunnel carpet and remove the inspection plates. Depending on if you have a tail or side shifter tranny, the adjusting clamp will be either near the firewall (tailshifter) or directly aft of the shifter itself (sideshifter.) This is a good time to fiddle with the fore/aft part of the shift throw. Place the car in 4th. Do you have to reach to get to the shift knob? Ideally, when sitting with your shoulders firmy against the seatback, you should be able to grab the shifter without pulling your right shoulder off the seat. If you are a tall person with the seat all the way back, or have short arms, you should adust this. It will make for a much better driving experience, improve your track times and be safer! Now to deal with the 1st/Reverse problem. Take a 10mm socket and a Vise-grips with you for a drive. First, place the car in 3rd and mark the fore/aft position of the clamp on the shift rod (I believe you may need to be in 2nd if you have a tailshifter) Move the shifter into 2nd. Now using the vise-grips to hold the shift rod steady, loosen the clamp. Rotate the shift rod left (toward you) just a smidge and tighten the clamp. Now, go drive a few blocks. Don't like it? Try it again. It has been a while since I adjusted the shifter and IIRC you will have to move the shifter between 2nd and 3rd several times (I think it was that you can see your mark in 3rd but can only get to the clamping bolt when in 2nd, or was it the other way around?) Good luck!
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Herb '72 Tangerine 'Teen 2.4 liter aluminum handgrenade |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Savannah, GA, USA
Posts: 653
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Make sure all bushings and the shift rod universal joint bushings are in good shape. If they have never been replaced, you should do so. If the shift rod universal joint bushings are shot they can really cause some strange shift results. I thought my reverse lockout springs were fading and it turned out the universal joint bushings were disintegrating, literally. Adjusting the linkage at that point did nothing.
Mike |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 28
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Thanks for the responses. The car is a 73 2L and the bushings are in good shape. As long as I perform the 1st to 2nd shift normally there is no problem. If I get a little hasty and put a little bit of pressure to the left, bad sounds result. I will try some adjustments and see if that does the trick before replacing springs. It makes me mad as hell when I nick reverse. If the sound made is any indication it must be doing really bad things inside the gearbox.
The 1st to 2nd throw is a bit tricky. When first driving it "catches" just a bit going into 2nd. After a few shifts it is much smoother. Perhaps the gear oil needs to get distributed or maybe the synchros are going. I think that I'm pretty sensitive to the gearbox, I don't try to rush the shift but still try to keep it crisp. It was while experimenting with the 1st to 2nd shift that I nicked reverse last night. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Allen Park, Mi, USA
Posts: 235
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This used to happen to me every now and then. I got into the habit of wiggling the stick back and forth one time in the neutral position to be certain of my bearings before taking 2nd. This certainly is not the quick way to shift, but I haven't hit reverse by accident since adopting this habit. I'm willing to give up a little speed in shifting to avoid listening to that horrible sound of hitting reverse by accident.
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Malaga Red '76 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 400
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well i think the adjustment and slowshifting is the trick
i have one of the springs removed and i never hit reverse] i even out run my syncros some times ( i need a rebuild ) and it takes me .5 seconds to shift with no noticeable pause i just got sick of fighting the springs here is my adjustment method first find small friend or child ( next door neighbors are perfect) second take large boot at tranny off third put car in neutral and have small person hold it there at tranny end fourth loosen the 13 mm bolt at the shift lever fifth put shift lever to edge of spring pressure and vertically where you want it six tighten 13 mm bolt seven try your shift pattern by driving back and fourth eight scrape neighbors kid off driveway and deposit on parents stepps what this does is get second lined up with the edge of the springs and reverse as far away from no spring pressure as possible this takes 5 mins and i have done it several times and i cant get to the 13 mm bolt any other way i have tried 2 other methods and cant do it any other way i cant see any way to get the 13 mm bolt when using the tech article on PP web site it says loosen bolt shift from reverse to first then reinsert rod to shift lever tighten bolt ... well when in any gear but neutral i cant get the bolt in the hole good luck
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scott thacher 75 914 with 2.5 l 98 suby engine on the road |
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