Engine dies w/ lights on

[prattrc]

This kind of stuff has to happen on a Monday...

I started the 914 this morning, no problems, starts right up like always. But as I backed up, I pulled the lights on and the engine cut out. I went to restart the car, and I got nothing. The fuel pump would not run and the starter would not turn.

I grabbed my test light and checked the battery, it had a charge, how much, I couldn't say, but it lit the test light. I got back in the car and turned the key to run the pump, it ran, so I turned the key to start. The engine started, and I went for my lights again. The engine died again. Same drill, wait, wait, curse, wait, curse, check fuel pump, negative, curse, wait, check watch, wait, curse, check fuel pump, good, start engine, drive off w/out lights (didn't need them by then anyway).

When I got to work, before turning off the engine, I flipped on the lights, and, you guessed it, the engine died.

Any thoughts?

[914]

Ray,
Can Be Altnator,Voltage Reg./Battery,Mine Was
Doing The Same Thing,Replaced The Voltage
Reg.And All Is Well
Alan

[prattrc]

How does one go about testing the Volt Reg?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_alternator_troubleshoot/914_alternator_troubleshoot.htm

[prattrc]

A couple of things...

It looks like that tech article relies on the alt warning light in the gauge cluster. This may be another symptom, but the alt warning light in my cluster is inop. When the key is in the "on" position (one click shy of start), the Alt light usually burns, since my problem began, I get no light. Without the light, I can't follow the troubleshooting steps suggested in the article.

I took another look at the battery and its connections. The black lead from the positive terminal is hot. The red lead from the positive term is apparently dead. The bolt/adapter for that lead is pretty rusty, and I'm guessing that may be my problem. Thoughts? Should I jump over the rusty connector and see if I have juice in the gague cluster?

[ws91420]

You can take the regulator to you local Auto Zone and they can test it for you. And believe it or not a regulator that fits old Chryslers fits the 914.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Everything that is connected together metal-to-metal should (in theory) be electrically the same. If one is hot, the rest should be as well. This also includes the battery terminal--so in effect, the battery terminal, the battery clamp, the medium-thick red wires (my car has 3 I think, +1 I added for the stereo), the big thick black wire to the starter, and the medium-thick red wire from there to the alternator, should all be "hot" all the time.

--DD

[prattrc]

Originally posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
Everything that is connected together metal-to-metal should (in theory) be electrically the same. If one is hot, the rest should be as well

--DD

Precisely. The two small-ish red wires running from the + term were not showing current. The big black 'un was. They were connected to the same terminal, but the bolt to which the red wires were attached was rusted to the point that it would not hold a current. With the key in the on position, I tested that theory by using a rubber-handled set of pliers to jump directly from the terminal to the red lead. As soon as I did that, the fuel pump cranked up for its 1.5 sec run and my alt warning light came on.

I ran (in the wife's ride) to my FLAPS and threw down $0.99 for a new terminal clamp and associated hardware. Tore off the old one, hooked up the new, and she fired up like before, maybe even better. I can even use the lights now.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

So, Electrical Guru's, why did it start to begin with and then cut out with the extra pull of the lights, not enough good metal to carry the higher load? Should I still have the suspected regulator checked?