Accelerator cable sticky

[Joe Ricard]

How can I get the accelerator cable out to lube it. I disconected it from the gas pedal and was not able to pull it back through the tube in the tunnel.
Second for all you carb guys, what type of fuel filter are you running? How many micron. brand name size etc.
If I have to stop and blow out my idle jets one more time I might loose it. Although I am getting pretty good at it.

[DSPTurtle]

Joe,
I have that same "sticky" problem...no innuendos please. Anyway, I just replaced mine and it is still very "sticky". Make sure it is not hung up on the clutch cable and make sure you remove the ball and cup fitting so it is just the cable. Other than that, just coax it out by pushing and pulling...man I hope no one does a search on this thread. Anyway, you can also try to lube it from the topand jsut let the stuff seep down into the cable where you disconnect it from the throttle linkage.
Good luck and let us know if you figure out the source of your problem!!!

[karlp]

I found the cause of stickiness in my car to be in the section between firewall and carb, Something about the routing it was forced to take. All the lube in the world would not fix it. I cut the end off the cable and replaced the casing with a length of steel brake line of the correct length. Compression fitting onto the tube coming out of the firewall.
Smooth as silk!!
Only draw back is having to get a "ball" back onto the carb end. I used a little bolt with a hole through it off one of the Kids bicycle brakes.

Hope it helps!

Karl

[John Rogers]

I just had to replace the cable im my daughter's 914 at an auto-x this past saturday. Both ends on the outer housing were lose and had lots of internal corrosion. Found that the pivot at the pedal was very sticky too and some super lube freed it up after a while. I hung up the new cable and ran some super lube down inside till it ran out the bottom. The wire was super free and smooth. The old cable was stuck onto the tube coming out of the firewall and I had to grip it with pliers and tap it lose. I forgot to remove the nut, which you have to do to get the cable out. I also tapped the new one on slightly to seat it. I also had to make sure no parts were touching the heat exchangers and there were no kinks or sharp bends. Works very nice now. I plan to do the race car tomorrow if the rain goes away. We are pretty lucky to have cables that can be replaced, it would have been real bad to have the "electronic cable" break! Good luck.

[Joe Ricard]

Yup seems to be one of my sticky problems. been playing with different routing works real good when straight. Maybe I will try that replace the cable housing thing.

Great Idea.

[rfoulds]

This is yet another joy in owning a 914:

As I read these posts, I constantly go, "gee, mine does that too."

I could be in the garage for a LOOOONG time.

[Joe Ricard]

At least I think I made a big improvement. Pulled the cable out, what a pain. Snipped the end off the engine side of cable. Pulled the rear flexible housing off and found lots of corrosion inside that white plastic sleeve. The sleeve was also knurled up and crushed at the end thus the binding. I suppose the sleeve belongs there but after two beers trying to get the cable back in the plastic Ol'e Mr. Budwieser and I voted to leave it out. Greased up the whole thing real good and works real good now.
I also took the opportunity to custom cut the length of the aft housing to better accomodate my new hex bar linkage

anybody want a 4 alarm headache? just tell me I will send you a pivot reach rod P.O.S. carb linkage. free even.

[rich]

I had a freind that works on motor cycles tell me he puts light oil in a ballon and tapes it over the cable sheath on bike cables. The about every hour or so he just gives the ballon a squeeze. this forces the oil inside the sheath. I never tried it, but what the heck. Sound like it would work.