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Hand-made GT FLares > Second prototype
Hi to all, here is my second prototype, in an attempt to build my own GT flares. Based on some Fiberglass set i have. Those prototypes are actual size.
Please see other topics > my first prototype > http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4383 Malevolentfrog topic > http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57782 - - - First, a paper template was used over the rear fiberglass flares. For making a dye. The sheet-metal should react the same way as the paper is. ![]() - - - Second, an attempt was made to do it in only one part. To no success, the compound curve of the flare is too much for the expand/shrink metal forming techniques. So a third part was made, requiring welding/fitting/grinding. ![]() - - - Then, going back to the paper template, a single piece of metal was created but this time with «slices/wedges». Again, welding/fitting/grinding is required but the flare can be adjusted/fitted quite easily. ![]() ![]() - - - About 20 hours was needed to complete each of the prototypes. Id like your thoughts about using multiple part prototype or the single part one. Thanks to all, go see my 914/6 conversion page at: www.farleydw.com/914.html |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 400
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2 words
damn good
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scott thacher 75 914 with 2.5 l 98 suby engine on the road |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 42
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Farley If You are good with a welder the multipiece method would be the best. I would tack every thing in Place and then I would skip weld them. Weld about 3 inches then flatten the weld out with a hammer and dolly. Then skip 3 inches and do it again. untill I was done. And By the way they look great.
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looks good
Looks good! You've got quite a head start on a set of steel flares. Remember, the real steel flares still take quite a bit of work to get on the car and look right. I spent about $1500 for my flares, and then another $1500 to get them welded on and fit/stretched right for a correct fit. The factory flares themselves are far from done. It looks like you have the skill to do the install as well.
-Steve |
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C'est tres bien, Sabin! I am very impressed!
I'm guessing that Malevolent Frog is right--the sectioned fenders would be the way to go. You'll have to see what kind of shaping you can do after you get them welded together, though, as the seams between the sections are still very visible and the corners where the metal is bent are likewise. If you can smooth them out, they should look stunning. I'm guessing that getting the two-piece fender put together nicely will be more difficult than smoothing the little bumps in the sectioned one. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Stay away from my Member
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Agoura, CA
Posts: 5,773
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Wow. The innovation and determination of you guys is really impressive!
Personally, I would just spend the bux to get the factory parts and be done with it. Time is money, and money is time. Can't ever have enough of either... At 20 hrs/ea IMHO it makes Mittelmotor at $700/set or even US street prices at $1600/set look a deal. But that's just me I guess...too old, busy and tired to tackle a cool fabrication project of this magnitude! Keep us posted...
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Chris C. 1973 914 "R" (914-6) | track toy 2009 911 Turbo 6-speed (997.1TT) | street weapon 2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance | daily driver 2001 F150 Supercrew 4x4 | hauler |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 682
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Hey siverson, have any links to the project in the corner? Now that looks like fun!
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 886
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how 'bout the one in the middle...
Sabin - amazing!
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-- Dave '73 914, 2056 GT/SC done! '69 Lotus Europa S2 - under resto. pics at http://www.syer.net |
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Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
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I agree with the frogman, use the method in the 2nd photo, It's may require a little more patients welding, but will prove to be alot less shaping work. Looks good.
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