After rebuild issues 2.0 w djetronic FI

[73L96D20]

1973 porsche 914 2.0 / Djetronic fuel injection .

Need some advise here guys. Did top end rings, valve job, resealed all leaks and check tolerances all around while apart. What a difference!

Anyways I have 1100 miles on the rebuild and have some questions and issues.

1- what should my 1000 mile tuneup consist off. Planning on valve adjustment, oil change and checking torque on heat exhangers and rocker arms and misc other stuff underneath.

DO I NEED TO RETORQE THE HEADS????? If so how hard is t really to do while in car. Gotta figure e fine pull in 4hr out and 4hr install so 8 hours just for that. Do the time come off in the car??? Please let me know anything you do about this.

Also I am having some intermittent issues with the FI and ignition. Seriously one day she runs beautifully and the next runs like a dog. Full tuneup already. I am wondering g if this could be a worn/shot distributor shaft changing the points and timing. Gonna recheck all vacuum seals again soon but like I said I already went through and she is a beauty.

New ground cable and battery has never missed a beat.

Also my idle adjustment screw seems to be loose and the seal bad. When I wiggle it left right up down etc it moves a bit and messes with the idle. IS THERE AND ORING SEAL ON THIS?

While I'm noig all my issues (with the car, not personal ones!), the rear control arm bushing need replacement. CAN I DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING HEAT EXCHANGERS OR ENGINE?

I would not be able to own this car without doing it all myself and this forum is a great contribution.

Thanks in advance

[TheCabinetmaker]

oil change and valve adjust are prudent to do at this point, (I would have checked the valves sooner seeing as they were re-done).

there is no factory requirement to re-torque the heads, and since it is very difficult to get at some of the head stud nuts, dont bother, you either do them all or none of them, if you only tighten the ones you can get to, it can screw them up since they are supposed to be evenly torqued in a sequence. so a NO on the head re-torque, not needed.

Not sure the reason for the intermittant poor running. could be injection, could be ignition. vaccum leaks can effect either. poor grounds and other elctrial things like bad connection of course will effect the FI, as do worn componnets such as trigger points, or dirty injectors, worn throotle circuit board etc....

if you suspect a worn distributor shaft causeing drifting of timing, then use a timing light and confirm if the advance/retard is stable or not. If unstable it could be a worn dizzy shaft. since the 914 stock distributor is unique to D-jet system, you can only really replace the dizzy with a like one, and they can be pricey (the dizzy in a D-jet also hoses the trigger points used by the FI system to control fuel injection pulses) rather than replace that D-jet dizzy if it is worn, you might consider upgrading to an electronic ignition such as Pertronix, which slips intothe stock dizzy eliminating the points and condensor. ths system is NOT effected by a worn dizzy shaft and thus will give rock solid stability in timing, you will never have to re-time the car again, nor worry about dwell and cleaning the points. truely atrouble free upgrade, and it cost about $150 which is not bad seeing as it will save you from replacing the dizzy and you will never ever have to replace points nor set timing ever again. highly recommend this upgrade even if you dizzy checks out fine with the timing light stability test.

no rubber seal is on the idle adjustment screw, I have seen one where someone over tightened the screw, and cracked the throotle body housing below it, big air leak!!!
If the screw is so loose it is actually moving around, and he setting keeps changing, then you could wrap some teflon pipe tape on the treads to help tighten the threads up a bit

[John Rogers]

Several questions since it runs well and some times does not. First, did you get the injectors cleaned, put on new large and small o-rings and insure that little plastic piece is on all the injectors? Next is the fuel system, did you flush everything well and run some Marvel Mystery Oil in with the gas to clean things out? Next, what is the fuel pressure and how do the injectors look when doing a flow test. Next I would check the torque of the throttle body if it was pulled off the plenum and the torque of the runner hold down nuts. Finally I agree about the idle screw looseness and the tape idea.

[73L96D20]

You two really added lots of information and I appreciate it so much.

In response:
Have not checked injectors flow test/ I did do new o-rings/ large and small. Going to go through the connectors and put dielectric grease and new boots to make sure. I was thinking this as well. going to run some cleaner through. Will look for the marvel stuff you mentioned.
- lazy me never checked fuel pressure as it was running really well. I know I need to do this.
- replaced trans ground strap. Going to do the same for battery to body strap soon
- have not replaced spark plug wires- going to do that next
- looking into the electronic ignition as recommended. Points are a pain and I know this
- forgot that I didn't replace condenser. Have to do that but as I understand those dont really fail too much.
- idle air screw. Great info
- going to go through and retorque all the intake and exhaust shortly when I do the oil change and such. Then run through w a propane to check for intake leaks
-

That being said, going to hold off on retorque heads until I pull motor to do other stuff.

REAR CONTROL ARMS. Can I do this with engine in car? Mine busing are pretty worn and back drivers side is sagging.

Thanks again guys. Would never be able to do this DIY stuff without your experience

[73L96D20]

Ok great YouTube video showing rear control arm bushing r&r. He said 2 hours each side. Really nice DIY.

How To Replace a Rear 914 Bushing (Part 1 of 2) - YouTube

No air leaks - confirmed.
Removed and clean idle adjustment screw and added Teflon tape. Solid as a rock.
Dielectric grease and new rubber boots on Injector cables - pain in butt!
Ordered Petronix II today from pelican. Super happy to rid myself of points. Hope this is easy. Supposedly a performance item as well.
Ordered wires from another place in GA
Also new valve adjustment screws. Mine are pitted bad and pretty loud.

Will report back in next move

[TheCabinetmaker]

Elephant Poly Bronze bushing are very nice, a great up grade to the 914 suspension, I believe Pelican sells them. they are super easy to install, and will give increase handling performance. they (elephant racing) have a nice website that explains how they work. you may have to do a litle turning of the outer urathane part, if no lathe, you can get away with a making a fitting on a drill press to turn teh part then tae down the material with a file or sand paper. not all installs require this, depends on the warpage of your trailing arm. the outer bushing hole tends to get warped when it was made do to the welding that is done on that end. with poly bronze, the result is a superior ride, well worth it.

note on removal of the old rubber bushing, use a three jaw puller to push the shaft out of the bushings. much better than burning them out or drilling them out.

I have done two poly bronze installs, very happy with it.

There are better vendors out there then George Hustler, err Hussey, really poor customer service

[73L96D20]

As a follow up: I checked for any air leaks, put new injector wire boots and dielectric grease, oil change and adjusted valves (which were almost all pretty tight). Does this mean anything important that I need to pay attention to?

Tried to change to valve adjustment screws since mine are pitted but have to pull the rocker arms since they seem to not want to unscrew all the way. Another day for that.

Ran smoother for sure

Pertronix ignition is next.