Machine work for use of 911 rims

[Eddie Brown]

Hi, I've got a set of 911 replicas (15x6) for my 72 914. I'm in Bakersfield, Ca.. Does any one know of a machine shop around this area, or even down in LA(1-1/2 to 2 Hr. drive) that does this kind of work frequently, and properly. I'll go this route until I learn more about my car, and what I can or cannot afford to do suspension and brake wise. I wouldn't mind a 911 front end, but I can wait.
BTW, what do these services cost approximately?.

I look forward to your response.

Thanks,

Eddie.

[Zeke]

I think you are going to use 4 lug to five lug adaptors or go the full route. See the tech article on five lug conversion. If you thake your stuff to a machine shop, you might get more invested than just buying the off the shelf stuff.

[Eddie Brown]

Thanks, Milt. I've read some posts regarding adapters. It seems that most people don't think too fondly of them. Besides, using one bolt, I've presented the rims onto the rotors. The clearance is good all around. I don't know if the adapters will make the tires rub the fenders? I'm running 205/60r15's on the rims now.
I noticed that new 914/6 rotors would cost me approx. $250, which isn't bad. I would still need to solve the hub issue. Does PP have those in stock?, or do I still need to get those drilled for the 911 pattern?. Can I still use 914/6 rotors with my current calipers??

I'll look at the tech article for more info anyways.

Thanks,

Eddie.

[campbellcj]

The front 914/6 rotors are vented, basically the same as an SC (A caliper) rotor. The stock 914/4 calipers won't work as-is. I think I heard someone say you can split the caliper and insert a spacer between the halfs to use the vented rotor, but I may have that completely mixed up. (Odds are good).

The rear /6 rotors are available and the best way to go in back. Really no point in re-drilling rear /4 rotors. You can keep the stock calipers in back.

AFAIK Pelican doesn't offer 5-lug conversion parts (I could be wrong). GPR sells ready-to-go kits with new studded rotors and bearings but they are fairly spendy. FAT in Orange County also says (in their catalog) that they can drill rear hubs on an exchange basis.

[anthony]

You might want to search back 3-4 weeks for the last 5 lug conversion topic. If you search I'm sure you'll find several. I got premachined hubs from GPR (German Parts and Restoration) for $30/ea. on an exchange basis. You'll need 911 lug studs, new wheels bearings, rotors, lug nuts, and maybe new pads to complete the rear setup.

Also, 914-6 rear rotors don't cost $250. I paid $108 for a pair.

For the front you can press studs into the 914-4 rotors. Check the tech article. It will answer most of your questions.

[roadtrp204]

Fat Performance in Southern Cal can do the machine work.

www.fatperformace.com

European Car had a story on the conversion some years back and Fat was list as their source for the machine work.

I believe these places can do the rear hubs on an exchange basis or can do/ have yours done.

www.********.com

www.renegadehybrids.com

European Motorworks 800-722-8678

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Rich Johnson also sells the converted five-lug rear hubs. a914guy@aol.com I have heard rumors (elsewhere on this BBS) that at least at some times the other shops that sell these parts get them from him...

A small correction--the 914-6 front rotors are indeed the same as the "A" brake rotors (and "S" ones, too) but the brakes themselves are "M" brakes. They have the 3" mounting bolt spacing, not the 3.5" the A and S brakes have. All three use/can use the same rotor.

--DD

[Zeke]

My rear hubs came from FAT.

[campbellcj]

Originally posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
A small correction--the 914-6 front rotors are indeed the same as the "A" brake rotors (and "S" ones, too) but the brakes themselves are "M" brakes. They have the 3" mounting bolt spacing, not the 3.5" the A and S brakes have. All three use/can use the same rotor.
--DD

Right...but I thought he had 914/4 front calipers? So some magic, or a caliper swap, is needed to use the vented rotors, right? (Actually I am in the same boat right now; due to race-class rules I will probably use 320 calipers on solid rotors at first.)

Or am I completely confused...those 6 or 7 years of college really did take a toll

Anthony -- I believe he meant ~$250 for all four rotors, which is in the right ballpark (+/- $60/ea)

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I wasn't addressing what the original poster had, merely what came on the 914-6es.

Mueller had all four corners on his car re-studded in the 5-bolt pattern. Kept the stock 914-4 brakes, but at least he had five-bolt wheels without those cheesy adaptors!

You'd have to do quite a bit to use stock 914-4 calipers on vented rotors. Not worth the hassle at all, IMHO. Just try to find the caliper half spacers--it's easier to just find a whole 911 front end...

--DD

[Joe Ricard]

I just happen to have some "M" caliper spacers. I would have to see if they fit a 914/4 caliper. If so I will post and you are welcome to them. I also have 914-6 struts & hubs Cheap. Not going to use them.
Went with the 320i fronts and the stopping power is definately as advertised.

[mike mueller]

If you can get the 911 or 914-6 strut assembly cheap enough, I'd got that route, but if not, nothing wrong with the rotors/hubs re-drilled.

For the fronts, any compentent machine shop should be able to modify them, make sure your rotors are in good shape, you'd be pissed to have them studded just to have to replace them for being too thin.

basicly 4 new holes are drilled (you use on existing threaded hole)
then all 5 holes are reamed out, the backside or inside of the rotor is spotfaced for the head of the stud.
(5x130mm bolt pattern)

for the rear, it's pretty much the same. I had a local machine shop do the work for me on the front rotors and the rear hubs.
(cost was free, it just took a few weeks... we use them for work)

for the rear rotors, i just re-drilled that myself with my drill press, no big deal since the wheels are bolted to the hub and the rotor could be a tad bit off with no problems.

get pressed in studs, do not go with screw in studs.......unless the screw in studs screw in from behind like a bolt.....

[sammyg2]

Before calling FAT performance, try calling RIMCO (Riddle machine company) in santa Ana, Ca. I know they do much of FAT's machine work, they may do this also. You might save the cost of a middleman.