Webers/ crossbar linkage sticking

[guards73/2.0]

I 've got a 2.0 with 40IDF's and the Bugpack crossbar linkage, a NEW factory accelerator cable and I've always had a throttle that
sticks closed ( not open, not a safety issue) when you push down on it. It sticks, and then it frees up suddenly as you add pressure
sort of like you were working against a cam or something. Of course, I'd like it to be free and smooth, requiring even pressure
throughout the stroke to operate. Any one seen/solved this one before?

[JWest]

Can you take a pic of your setup? Maybe we can see a problem with the type of linkage or the setup of it.

[1bad914]

Does the linkage bind when the accelerator cable is not attached? Start with the carbs and check for binding ther first, then work your way back. Reconnect the linkage one component at a time and check for binding. Make sure that you are pushing down in a stright line and not at to much of an angle. My guess is that the cable is binding. Did you grease the cable well when you installed it. Also check for pedal binding, they may be dry or sticky. Basically start with linkage and work your way forward.

Good luck,
Randy
P.S. I'm about to put 40 IDF's on a 2.0, did you put a different cam in or is it stock? Are you happy with the performance? What size jets did you use?

[John Rogers]

Several things to check: Make sure the vertical rods are straight up/down, usually there is a standoff that has to go on the carb throttle arm? Make sure each throttle shaft is free (as noted earlier)? Make sure cross-bar is free to pivot and does not bind or is slipping out of the pivots? Does each carb have their return spring and how big is the linkage spring? Does the throttle cable have a smooth run up to the arm on the cross bar? Good luck.

[guards73/2.0]

This car came to me carbed with the Weber kit for a 2.0 as it was sold in the 1970's (with the center pivot linkage), hence I don't have an FI experience to compare it to. Not worth going back to FI, though, as good parts
for that seem to be drying up. Downdrafts are 'cold-blooded ' though, you'll have to warm your car up before you drive it, but we all should anyway.

[Kevin Powers]

undo the cable and operate the cross bar manualy. if you get to a bind point and then it operates freely i'll bet the arms have a way less than verticle angle in relationship to the carb connection. they would be pushing sideways rather than down. you may have to move the arms on the cross bar as far out as you can. my cb set up gave me fits. i'm waiting to instal my new setup from triad when i do the motor swap.

kevin

[guards73/2.0]

Yeah, I think you're on the right track. I looked at a friends speedster kit car that has the identical linkage and his works well,
but he has 3" long tubular standoffs from the throttles to the arms, giving the arms a straight line down. He just has a bolt running through a 3" long brass bushing between throttle and linkage arm. Those eyeball joints
on the arms are deceiving...they lead you to believe that you can get away with quite an angle down to the carbs and you set yourself up for this in the process of arranging the linkage to clear your air cleaners. The "cam" you feel actually is the idle linkage (accel pump, actually I think) cam on the underside of the IDF which becomes even harder to overtake with the sticking throttle linkage, and boy, does that magnify at the pedal! I think I can fix this now....those brass bushings look nice polished up, btw.

[guards73/2.0]

Ok, here's the fix:

1) get the accel cable pull very smooth. Make sure you don't have
clutch cable tunnel problems, e.g. accel cable wrapped around a moving ( should be immobilized when healthy) clutch tube . I had this problem. The clutch actually affected the throttle. Fixed that.
2) As the poster before said, make sure the arms are vertical.
This ABSOLUTLEY will require standoffs both on the throttles and the arms that come off the bar to give you that straight down line you need. Those eyeball sockets will not enable you to run angled
forces to the throttles, they'll just bind! A 2.0 with IDF's and air cleaners needs this. NOTE: I used to have the evil center-pivot linkage all the VW guys say is junk. It worked PERFECTLY, and
needed no additional parts fabrication. They say it will drift on idle
as the engine heats and expands. BALONEY! Mine never did. THrew it out during a rebuild. Should have kept it!
I must say, the chrome X-bar LOOKS cooler, though...

[guards73/2.0]

Originally posted by 1bad914
Does the linkage bind when the accelerator cable is not attached? Start with the carbs and check for binding ther first, then work your way back. Reconnect the linkage one component at a time and check for binding. Make sure that you are pushing down in a stright line and not at to much of an angle. My guess is that the cable is binding. Did you grease the cable well when you installed it. Also check for pedal binding, they may be dry or sticky. Basically start with linkage and work your way forward.

Good luck,
Randy
P.S. I'm about to put 40 IDF's on a 2.0, did you put a different cam in or is it stock? Are you happy with the performance? What size jets did you use?

I just went with the Weber's recommendations ( in the Weber Carb Book) for the 1973 2.0
and it worked very well. As for a cam, mine MAY be stock ( not sure, never split the case). Technically, you should change cams
for carbs, but I dont think in the real world for a street car it makes much difference. The VW site gurus ( like John Connolly) say the need to change cams on a 914 to go to carbs is bunk. I bought my car carbed. I'd keep the
EFI if I had it , but it's not worth going back due to expense, parts
availability and, well... a D-jet is a POS among FI's IMHO ( had one on a Volvo years ago, was the only unreliable Swede I've ever owned, and I've had 10 now).... Kind of makes you uninspired to spend 1- 2 grand converting to that system properly. Once properly set up, your carbed 914 will be about
as complicated a fuel delivery system as a lawn mower. You
wont need parts for years, when you do, they're still made (and
cheap). You wont get any power, you'll probably lose some, but
not much. The better you tune it, the less you'll lose. And you have to warm your car up for a couple minutes in the morning
( get a quiet muffler if you have neighbors) since downdrafts don't
have chokes. You have to pump them up before you start them.
But, THEY START...and THEY RUN!!! (Unlike some "F"'ed up D-jets)

[1bad914]

I could not have said it better myself!

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I don't know where the notion that you have to change cams for carbs came in. You absolutely do not have to! The car will run with carbs and the stock cam. When the carbs are properly set up, the motor will run pretty well! Listen to John C., he has lots of experience with VWs in general and a fair amount with Type IVs like our 914 engines. (Even if some of his carb setup advice is difficult to understand... Anyone else know what a "zero bypass" is???)

However, you can take better advantage of having the carbs by going with a more aggressive cam grind. This will give you more top-end power, often at the expense of the low-end torque. It's nice to have, but not necessary to get the car to run.

Since the motor expands something between 1/8" and 1/2" overall from full-cold to full operating temperature, I'm really surprised that the center-mount rotating linkage worked so well for Guards! That's quite a lot of expansion, relatively speaking, and I would think that would throw off most of the linkage adjustments...

--DD

[guards73/2.0]

I think I probably had some slack in the linkage, which was fine. It did work, though...never an idle problem. Are you sure about that expansion distance? My rebuilder thought that the notion that this would affect that linkage setup at all was ridiculous. He says the barrels wouldn't stay in place if that kind of expansion actually happened. I think I'll measure my carbs distance apart change cold to hot. An eighth to a half inch? I'd have to see that. I know that's not the whole motor, but carb to carb's the distance that matters in this instance. Anyone done this?

[JWest]

The expansion does not occur on the outer ends of the motor leaving the barrels loose as your rebuilder envisions!

The expansion of the barrels themselves is one of the contributors to this increase in width.

[Kevin Powers]

when adjusting the end play on the "ball"ends of the crossbar that little goofy spring in the socket portion should keep things kosher.maybe check for side to side action when the engines hot. it's hard to imagine the enigine could expand 1/2". 1/8" i could see, that would be 1/16" per side. everything else in the engine would have to grow similarly or clearences for the cam, crank and bearings would be way out of wack. aluminum and steel grow at dif rates. i just don't think expansion would be that big of a factor.