best 914 engine to build ??

[flmont]

If I get the 76' 914,..I think, it will not have the engine,...So if I want to build for POWER and Reliability whats the best engine ,head ,cam ratio's,..to start with, plus I do want to use the F.I. system,..?? Thanks Frank

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Six...

--DD

[Cairo94507]

Dave beat me to it.

[Nostril Cheese]

3.0L six

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Think about your goals for the engine, and what constraints you have.

If you have no limits or constraints, you can do something like a small-block Chevy twin turbo, as someone is discussing over on 914world right now. (Hint: This is the way to go if you really like to break stuff!)

If you want to stay air-cooled, the Six option is going to give you the best combination of power and reliability.

If you want lighter weight, the Scooby (Subaru) flat-fours are lighter even with the water cooling than the later Sixes, and the turbocharged ones can put out an astonishing amount of power. Careful selection of a Scooby transmission can give you one that bolts up with a minimum of hassle and can handle the power, though you may have to disable the rear output of an AWD trans.

You can stay with the Type IV engine, and stuff can be done to it. However, keeping the stock fuel injection greatly limits what you can do. In particular, it is challenging to make the stock FI run decently with anything more aggressive than the stock camshaft. We know people who have gone up to 2056cc with a just-slightly-hotter cam and about a half-point higher compression, and still used D-jet. They did need to tweak a number of things and use a dyno and wide-band O2 to set it up, though.

If you're willing to completely (or almost completely) forego heat, a header will give you some power even on a stock motor. The best headers cost like they're the best, and if you throw even more money at them you can get about enough heat out of them to defog your windshield.

I don't know if it's possible to get 150 honest HP out of a D-jet 914 motor. It will definitely take work (and money!) to get close to that figure.

So, again--what are your constraints, and what are your goals?

--DD

[John Rogers]

What are the rules in AZ for smog, changing engines, etc. From what I remember there are little to none so if that is the case I would do as already mentioned, do a mild six cylinder conversion. There is a shocking (to some) cost to this but in the long run it will last a whole lot longer than a type 4 with even a bit of hot rod work.

For the six you are better with carbs but even getting them rebuilt is expensive unless you can do it reliability yourself. If you want to stay with a type 4 engine then a 2L with reconditioned case, heads, etc is the way to go. A slightly stronger cam, for torque, not high revs is best and slightly higher compression will make the car much nicer to drive.

If you are in Phoenix I would suggest talking with Jim Patrick at his Patrick Motorsports shop to see what he says. He has been doing this for a very long time and I raced with him for many years and he knows his stuff.

[The cap'n]

AZ has emissions testing (and rules) for people who live or work in the greater Phoenix and Tucson areas. I know there are at least some rules regarding engine swaps, 'cause I ran up against them with a proposed Vanagon engine swap.

The Cap'n

[flmont]

Well Thanks for the info,...But I cant afford all that ,..I meant which of the 914 engines between a 1.8 or 2.0....I have a 1.8...but I want the most power,..can I use a 1.8 case/long block to build a 2.0 engine...buy using 2.0 hds or is the stroke and compression diffrant,....want to stay F.I. Carbs seem like a pain to deal with ???? Frank

[mepstein]

What is your budget?

[flmont]

well I dont know i guess 2-4 k

[flmont]

I think smog rules are loose if you have historic plates,...I dont remember much its been yrs....I know you have to aleast pass 1 test,...???

[The cap'n]

You can use the case, but you'll need to change the crank and rods, as well as use the appropriate pistons (pin height is different). You can open up the heads for larger cylinders if necessary. 1.8 heads flow differently than 2.0 heads, so you'll make a little less HP. You can keep your FI system, but it may require tweeking to work as a 2.0. In effect, you'll have a bus 2 liter engine. EFI does NOT like camshaft changes! Your $4K budget may not get you there, as head work, just for stock, can easily eat up $2K if you use a good shop. It is foolish not to do so, BTW.

The Cap'n

[flmont]

wow,...when did 4 bangers get to pricey,..ok if I go full 2.0,..with some hd and cam work ,what the HP/ Torque range,..if I use carbs,...??? Thanks

[The cap'n]

I'd rather let folks with modified engine experience address that question. Nearly every T4 engine I've built over the last 40+ years has been bone stock. You are likely to hear a wide range of opinions, some of which may not be entirely fact based. BTW, it is difficult to build a good, reliable, pretty stock, T1 motor for $3K these days.
The Cap'n

[flmont]

LOL,...U can tell i have been out of the 914 fun for to many yrs,...Thanks For the info ,..Capt