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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 77
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front shock replacement
I should/need to replace the front shocks. The Haynes manual mentioneds a "special" tool to open the strut cap nut. Is there another way?
Also, I need to remove the torsion bar adjusting screw. Do I need to mark the position to get the screw back to were it was? Help- Neal |
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10-01-2002, 08:35 PM
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I just replaced my front shocks this weekend. If you do a search there is a few threads that tell you how to do the job. Also you don't need to remove the strut from the car OR mess with the torsion bars to do this job.
Essentially... Jack up the front of the car, remove road wheel. Loosen the clips holding the brake line to the car and strut. Unbolt the shock bolt, in the front trunk. Air tools are great here... Push/pull down the shock piston using the dust shield. Tilt the strut to get enough room to remove dust shield. Play with your steering so that you get the maximum brake line slack. Push the shock piston back into the upper camber mount bearing for support for the next few steps. Squirt some penetrating oil on the strut cap threads. Use a brass punch to whack the cap loose. The Bilsteins have a replacement cap so I didn't care if it messed it up. I also have a bicycle tool that works great for those dang notched collars. Don't have to whack as much. Tilt strut so that shock can just barely pass by the fender. I used a few strips of masking tape to protect the fender lip. Also watch your brake lines. That's pretty much it. Then just put it all back together. I was shocked (ugh) at how fast it went....I bet people could do this easily in 30 minutes a side. I was a little slower......but it was my first time. Last edited by RustyWa; 10-01-2002 at 09:44 PM.. |
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10-01-2002, 09:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tacoma WA
Posts: 1,384
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don't know if many know this one. if you use kyb's they pop right up. but for konis the threaded end of an old throttle cable is the same as the threads in the top of the inserts. thread it in, run it up through the hole in the tower drop the nut, the washer, and the rubber bushing on the cable, pull the rod up. quick and easy. for a laugh read the procedure in the haynes manual. remove spindle,disk and caliper, and strut assem. put in vise, get special tool. reassemble in reverse order ( i love that), then have the front end realigned. what do you think the shop cost would be to perform this work if done via this method?
kevin Last edited by Kevin Powers; 10-02-2002 at 04:41 AM.. |
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10-02-2002, 04:33 AM
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I used a pipe wrench on the "gland nut" that holds the shock into the strut when I replaced the shocks in my car.
At B's shop, I used either a large pair of channel-locks, or an air chisel, depending on the exact design of the nut. (The ones with the slots got the air chisel.) The struts were off the cars, and mounted in a bench vise already. --DD
__________________
Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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10-02-2002, 07:43 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 77
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Thanks for the replies.
I followed Eric's instructions and got them changed no problem. This list is great! Neal |
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10-02-2002, 07:39 PM
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yeah! i happened to have bought the kyb. one replied that air tools, to do part of the job, are great! can front struts be changed without air tools? i have none.
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10-03-2002, 03:13 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tacoma WA
Posts: 1,384
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air tools not required.
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10-03-2002, 04:03 AM
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Air tools.....
I just ran over to Les Schwab (sp?), local tire/repair vendor and they just did it for free.... loosened the top nut that is.. Last edited by RustyWa; 10-03-2002 at 11:21 AM.. |
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10-03-2002, 08:57 AM
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1975 Porsche 914 2.0L
74 Porsche 914 2.0 
orange
