Think I found my 1st 914! Need some help and advice from the experts

[MTBcrazy]

I owned a couple of bugs when I was a kid and always wanted a 914. I've just started to do some research on the 914's.
So I found a car that looks to be in fairly good condition. It was advertised as a 1976. The seller claim rust issues have been repaired. He also claimed the engine was rebuilt before he bought it a couple of years ago. One of the problems I have when looking at pictures is the heads are defiantly not 2.0L. They have 4 studs holding on the intake runners on the heads. The fuel injection was removed and replaced with single carb., looks like a weber. Maybe not the worst if the cam was replaced. The seller sent me the VIN (4762900777) manufacture date is 9/75. Engine case numbers (GC003770) this appears to be a match for a 2.0L engine???
How scared off should I be about the heads or motor?
What is the big performance difference in 1.8L vs 2.0L heads?
Any other things I need to be concerned about when I fly up to put my eyes on it before making any offers?
Please see attched link for pics and let me know what you think???
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

GC is a 75-76 2.0 motor. 476 is a 76 914. Four-bolt heads are not 2.0 914 heads; they may be Bus heads or 1.8 heads or modified 1.7 heads. The car had air conditioning at one point, but the compressor seems to be gone. Can't tell about the condenser because of the stuff piled in the front trunk. The heater system may be missing; the auxiliary blower certainly is.

The muffler is an inexpensive aftermarket replacement. (I personally hate that style, but some people really like the four-tip look!) The single-carb setup is about as bad a way as you can get for sending air and fuel into the motor. Duals are the way to go, if you don't go with injection.

There aren't really good views of the most rust-prone areas. Take a screwdriver with you and poke at those, if you can. Under the battery, especially forward of it, in the low spot where the water gets trapped, is the "hell hole" and that very often has rust. If you can remove the screws in the bottom of the rocker covers, you may find that the jack points (and the area around them) are covered in dirt and have rotted away. The floorpans also need to be checked, especially in the cabin under the rear window, and up front under the pedal cluster.

1.8 heads can be made to flow better than 2.0 heads, but it takes time and effort and knowledge to do so. That usually means money--and the single-carb setup tells me that someone didn't want to put money into the motor. Figure a ~5% loss in power and/or torque, maybe more, from using the wrong heads. Could be made up to some extent by upping the compression.

--DD

[ClausGraf]

Check the hell hole with a MAGNET too!

I might have been covered with fiberglass.

Claus

[MTBcrazy]

Thanks for the advise. I will definitely look it over good for rust. It's about a 6hr. drive from me so I might just drive up and bring a tow dolly with me. That way I can bring a jack, stands and a creeper and have a good look at it. I thought the same about the heads and cheaper parts installed. obliviously not wanting to spend the money on quality repairs, makes me wonder about the work done on the car.
Good advise on checking for fiberglass. The seller stated something had been under the battery tray.
Also said has shifting problems and shifter seams loose?
I have read your article stating that's a common problem when things start wearing out. Anything that might state it's just the linkage or mounts and not the trans-axle??
He also stated paint doesn't shine well, oxidation or a cheep paint job? Also makes me wonder.
He said he would take $6000. for it. new rotors front and back and new calipers in the rear. I guess it's worth it if the body has little or no rust. Do the rockers just come off easy??

I have done head mods on my bugs when I was a kid. I put 38,44mm valves and built a blower motor for my last bug I owned. Still have a couple blowers I've been hanging onto for years and a newer fuel injection, ignition setup just waiting for a Father/Son project. I was hoping to find something without a lot of rust, decent paint I could do a few repairs to and drive for a couple of years before ripping into the car, doing all the suspension, brake mods necessary and building a good motor & trans-axle.
I'm in the middle of Major house/shop renovations, all my equipment is in storage and don't have the time now. Besides my girlfriend will kill me if I start another big project now.

Thanks again for all the help, I'm sure if this one doesn't pan out I'll find on sooner or later. Just might have to pay a little more money to get what I want.
"If it sounds to good to be true it usually is"
I'm sure I'll be picking your brains in the future.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by MTBcrazy

Also said has shifting problems and shifter seams loose?

Common problem; it's usually the bushings in the linkage.

Do the rockers just come off easy??

The bottom has three screws that hold it on. They are often rusty. The top is held on by rivets. The best way to go (until you want to take the rockers off completely) is to remove the screws and swing the bottom of the rocker out. Lots of dirt will fall out; be ready for that. Then you can poke at the steel behind it.

I have done head mods on my bugs when I was a kid.

Type IV heads are not Type I heads. Some of what you know will apply, some will not. The decent quality parts cost a whole lot more than you'll be used to, as well. But that's now getting to be more and more true for Type Is as well, it seems.

--DD

[Cairo94507]

Are the trunks and engine compartment painted in POR15? Not a good sign if that is the case.