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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: France
Posts: 87
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Stiff accelarator pedal ...
Hi friends
I think I have a problem on my accelarator cable ... the pedal is hard to move. I checked pedal mecanism, removing the cable attachment, it is not that. I checked the cable where it comes out of the body before it rows up to the engine place, between fan and firewall (I hope it is clear for you...) So I think that my problem is that the angle at this place is really short. If I remove the cable from the engine place and put it under the car (horizontal, with no angle) the pedal moves perfectly... So, I would be interested in any experience about this angle problem, how can I extend it... May be a picture of yours ... Thanks in advance for your answer Philippe Last edited by Flat4ever; 12-20-2002 at 01:32 PM.. |
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Denver, NC
Posts: 1,391
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sometimes the cable can get wrapped around the clutch cable....
Has the cable been changed recently..... have you had the car for a while. Any additional history you could provide would be helpful... Carbs or Fuel Injected ??
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Central Virginia
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Are you sure there are no breaks in the sheathing? That was the diagnosis for mine a little while ago.
accelerator pedal pressure Mine works fine when it's not connected at the throttle body. A little tension on it, though, and I've two throttle postions: closed and wide open. --Case...
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'75 1.8L L-jet 914 |
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Quote:
the fact is I bought the car two months ago. It was stored for two years. It is carb powered (2 x 44 IDF). It is not a problem of wrapping around the clutch cable: If I disconnect the cable and remove it from the engine compartiment and let it stay horizontally under the car the pedal is smooth and really easy to move. I think that the way of the cable to reach engine place is not the good one, making a too short angle at the firewall outpout. My cable goes to engine not trough a metal sheet hole but between firewall and seal ... Thanks for your interest Last edited by Flat4ever; 12-21-2002 at 05:11 AM.. |
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well, if it works when it lays flat, but doesnt work when it is at a funny angle, my guess is that the angle has everything to do with it. maybe post a pic of it attached. Is it a new or old cable?
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Sure that pics are better than my poor english...
First, you can see the accelerator cable that comes in the engine. I do not think it is the right place... ![]() And below, you can see A - the accelerator cable B - the very short angle at the firewall exit. ![]() My Idea: I am going tu buy an aluminium tube (10 mm diameter) and I will form it to make the larger angle I can. And I introduce the cable in the curved tube ... Or better solution if you have, of course ! |
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Denver, NC
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There was a recent thread about carb installs follow the link to some pictures maybe this will help you see some other installs...
your cable location looks wrong need your pics of dual carb conv
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you have the throttle cable making 2 90 deg bends in a relatively short "run". the bend at the fire wall point is rather ugly. when the sun comes up i'll take a pic of my routing and post it. if the angle of the threaded rods where they connect to the carbs is too steep that can cause a bind also.
kevin |
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Mike Ginter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Denver CO.
Posts: 564
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Personally I think you need a new cable. It'll do wonders over the old one. The sheathing on the inside of the cable housing wears where the bends are. Cables are cheap enough.
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You are absolutely right.
The sheath is really in poor condition at the place where it comes out from the firewall and I have to order a new cable ... However, I am interested to know the exact place where the cable comes in the engine compartiment. |
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
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On our stock 1974 2l car the cable exits the firewall and goes to the right some and up through the sheet metal through a hole with a rubber grommet and then loops over the rightside intake runner to the throttle body. On the race car it exits and goes right and up and then makes a looping curve over the right side of the engine. When you get the new cable, before you install it, get a piece of wire such as the plastic coated stuff Home Depot sells and play with different routes from the firewall exit up to the top. Make sure there are no sharp bends like there is now and if you need to drill a hole in the sheetmetal then by all means do that so you get a smooth route. Good luck.
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Even though you feel that the two 90 degree bends are causing the problem, I wanted to mention that when you lay the cable out flat under the car, it COULD appear that the problem was solved even if it wasn't. I have seen this more than once. I you change the angularity of the cable in the engine compartment and that does not solve the problem, then I would remove the cable from the pedal, pull it from the back towards the back about three feet and then refeed it to the pedal assembly. It is possible that even though all appears fine from what you can see through the tunnel view hole that the cable is wrapped, twisted or caught on something way up near the tube. There is no way to see this without cutting open the tunnel and it produces EXACTLY the symptoms you describe. That, along with the fact that in my ten years of working on these cars, I have seen accel. cables routed ten times worse than yours that worked totally fine. HTH and good luck my man....peter
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Peter Hinkle drumvudu@earthlink.net http://home.earthlink.net/~porsche914 1974 Saturn Yellow 914/4 1.8/w BigBore/Webers/MSD 1988 944 Black on Black w/phone dials |
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Hi all,
I solved the problem . It was the too short two angles at the exit of the chassis and near the fan (see previous pictures). I changed my old cable with a longer one and I used the NORMAL PASSAGE in the metal sheet on the right side of the engine. The new cable make a larger angle in the engine compartiment and now the pedal is perfect and smooth. Notice: This is not the definitive solution. I am waiting for a cross hex linkage from CB Performance with high air filters. Accelerator cable will be optimised at this time Last edited by Flat4ever; 12-28-2002 at 10:45 AM.. |
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I have to second the want for a CB linkage. I played and fussed with the exact linkage you now have. Now I just pulled out the teflon liner of the cable housing and routed it similair to yours all is better. Question how stiff is your bracket mounted to the fans housing. I think even my size 8 foot would bend that thus causing your throttle adjustment to go out.
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Francisco Ca
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I just saw in person a linkage made by dave Ellison at Triad West Performance. It looked great. High quality with ball bearing ends so there is smooth throttle response. He is also making a throttle cable "holder" (not sure what to call it) that bolts onto the case or tin. In Flat4ever's last pic,. look for the blue thing where the cable is held. It would replace this with a sturdy piece of steel. Or e-mail him and have him explain it. I suck at explanations
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the blue thing is rubber tape, to make the cable harder at this place.
So, It is not definitive, it is only to have fun in driving the 2.0 waiting the new CB Linkage and filters. So the ball bearings option is also very interesting. Do you have any drawing or pic of this improved linkage ? |
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No no pic, but I will talk with Dave soon, and maybe he can take a pic of it. The exhaust is something else. it was THICK sounding
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1973 914 2.0 PCA Member GGRwww.pelicanparts.com/gallery/chrisreale/ www.914club.com |
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