![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
Pedal cluster pin? Clutch tube progress!
How in the heck do you get this stupid pin out? I have it a my buddy's shop & he has tried everything he can think of to break it loose. What is the trick? My cluster is how shall we say a little rusty
![]()
__________________
Jamie Rust 73' 2.0 PacificNW914 club member |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Posts: 601
|
J-
Do you have an air hammer available? Soak cluster/pin in PB blaster over night, then air hammer out. Might have to make something to fit in the hammer. Heat works, too. Just a thought.
__________________
Dave Korijo 73 Olympic Blue 914 1.7L (2L /4 back in progress) 69 Highlander Bug 1776 93 GL EV 2.8L The Van ™ 914club.com Member #914 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 460
|
I had to give mine a pretty hard wack with a big hammer and a punch. You just have to make it want to come out...
__________________
'75 1.8 -->1911 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
We tried an air hammer & heat. Still didn't budge. My bushing are still pretty solid but I bought the bronz bushings a while ago. I'll try again tommorow & hopefully get it to come out.
__________________
Jamie Rust 73' 2.0 PacificNW914 club member |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
![]()
Soak the snot out of the pin with PB Blaster (overnight), then find a short bolt and a longer bolt of the same diameter (OK, slightly smaller) as the pin. Then situate the cluster in a vise in such a way so that you can use the shorter bolt to press the pin out. This is where having a helper will come in handy, because the cluster is awkward to keep lined up in the vise so that you aren't trying to mash the pin into the opposing jaw. After you get it to move, use the longer bolt. Even if quite rusty, once it moves at all, you should be home free.
__________________
Herb '72 Tangerine 'Teen 2.4 liter aluminum handgrenade |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Foothills, Ca
Posts: 699
|
![]()
Those pins are tough! I read the tech article and started to drill mine out, break drill bit
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
1973 green 1.7 1973 Orange 2.0 1989 Ford F-150 |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
JM2CW,
It is probably cheaper to go to a swap meet and buy a used cluster with a less rusty pin for $5 and restore that than to fight the battle with what sounds like a real rusted on part. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 19
|
Soak it in Coca cola (yes soda) and large hammer, proper size pin punch and hold cluster solid, whack it and like Woodman said make it want to come out.
__________________
Tom 1972 1.7L resto in progress 1997 blazer 1985 F250 (stump puller) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Foothills, Ca
Posts: 699
|
Quote:
![]()
__________________
1973 green 1.7 1973 Orange 2.0 1989 Ford F-150 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Bend, OR, USA
Posts: 761
|
I tried the vise/press method (after breaking two drill bits) and all I did was strip the drive on my cheap vise. Took it to local Porsche shop and he put assembly in his vise, heated with a torch and used a big hammer and punch. No charge, pity I think.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Amazing my night is free. The wife & kids are going to be gone. SOunds wonderful night in the shop. I think I'm going to put my original pedal cluster back in temporarily. I've got my clutch tube secure with the ubolts. I'm gonna weld it all up on monday. I"m ready to tale the leech for a spin tommorow if all goes well putting the pedal cluster back in. Also adjusting the clutch & putting in my new mechanical distributor. Gotta swap out my hotfire ignition. I am so ready to drive the leech without any hesitation. Dare I say almost powerful TIV. Let's hope for no more surprises tonight.
__________________
Jamie Rust 73' 2.0 PacificNW914 club member |
||
![]() |
|