what is your opinion on the condition of these heads

01-11-2003, 02:35 PM

Hello,

I'm attempting a home rebuild (ala woodman and tshih). I've read some of the prior posts from various places including the archives...my question is this: is it possible to ascertain the condition of these heads from these pictures?

I'm definitely not a genius but there appears to be a tight seal around the valve area - if something was askew would it be evidenced in that area?

The second picture is an attempt to capture the "ca-ca" on the intake side.

The third is a close-up of the "best" or most carbonized head-valve-place.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much.

Feel free to have some laughs at my expense - either through ignorance or just being plain ol' SOL - hahaa.

I'm having trouble with the second picture but there appears to be some sort of sediment in the intake side of the dirtiest head - how good is that?

hardflex · 01-11-2003, 02:51 PM

From here, it looks like you were getting oil into the chamber which caused the buildup of the sediment you see. all chambers maybe slightly rich fuel mixture. The dirty chamber maybe leaking compression at 1 oclock and 6 oclock in top picture.

Heads should be gone through to make them right, IMO. But hey, what do i know. ;-}

01-11-2003, 03:14 PM

anyone in the boston area or Peterborough NH area have some valve compressor "clips" or some free time. I definitely have the time.

The PO was using dual dellorto (36mm) - could've the combustion chamber just not gotten enough air due to a mal-adjustment or lack thereof of the carbs? Does that make any sense?

As always, thanks.

DuckRyder · 01-11-2003, 03:36 PM

Some larger pictures would help a bit. More flash too they are pretty dark.

I'm far from an expert (in fact I was asking similar questions just weeks ago) but I don't se anything jumping out at me bad. Were the head "gaskets" intact?

Valve spring compressors don't cost that much any flaps should have them. Be careful.

Now, with the frequency at which these engines drop valves I suggest you send those suckers to someoen who knows them well. RIMCO is where mine are going, but if you wnat to see what a "regular" head shop can do for YA:

This is not what you are after. Spend the money on them now.

01-11-2003, 03:55 PM

I'll try to post some better pictures in about an hour - dinner then another photo shoot.

thanks.

01-11-2003, 05:53 PM

These heads came from a "GE" case which, I'm told, is actually from a VW bus so that's that.

The fat lady has sung.

Thanks for the advice just the same though.

Know anyone with an inexpensive 2.0L?

Bleyseng · Bleyseng's Garage

Look in the http://www.914club.com/
classified ads as there is a GA 2.0L for sale right now.
Geoff

01-12-2003, 08:29 AM

How about the "GB" case - it seems to make a bit more hp?
Are those cases made out of "unobtainium?"
Lastly, could I just transfer some of the parts from the "GE" case to a "GA" case (as in fuel pump, dual Dell 36mm, heads - hopefully)?

paulhagedorn · 01-12-2003, 09:45 AM

Been a while since I posted, but here goes.
As for the valve spring compressor, if you have an Autozone in your area, they 'rent' you the tool for $20-40. When you return the tool you get ALL of your money back. For cleaning the heads, remove the valves and go buy some carb cleaner. Not the stuff in a spray can, but the stuff in either a gallon jug, or if you have enough money, get the 5 gallon paint barrel size. That way, you can just drop it in the barrel and forget about them. When they come out, they will be as clean as the day they were made. When re-assembling the heads, get a valve lapper and the compound that goes with it. Put a liberal amount on the under side of the valve, where it contacts the head, and twiddle the valve lapper in your hand and it should make a good contact, removing the irregularities.

DSPTurtle · 01-12-2003, 10:15 AM

I think you have to be careful with how long you leave those heads in the carb cleaner otherwise the somvent will eat the aluminum and when you go to pull them out, you will be missing some metal. I could be wrong though....
JB

Kevin Powers · 01-12-2003, 10:16 AM

with the excessive carbon my guess is you were running way,way rich. putting those heads back on without new seats and guides is like installing 2 hand grenades in your car. if you are going to increase displacement chances are the valves will be too small anyway. go to www. aircooledtechnology.com to get an idea of what you may want to look at. if you are biulding your own motor you might want to consider purchasing the assem video offered there.

kevin

Bleyseng · Bleyseng's Garage

If you find a GA case it will have everything or need. The fuel pump should be electric, the heads on a 914 2.0L are sooo superior to the 2.0 bus heads so I'd sell/toss em. The Dells will work but are a little small so Dell 40's are a better match flow wise.
The GB case has higher compression pistons which if you get a used GA engine you will probably install new pistons and cylinders which most install the "euro's" 8to1 compression.
I'd sell the 2.0L bus engine to a bug guy as they seem to like 'em.
Get the real thing as its worth the money and your car will be worth more too.
Geoff
(I just tossed the engine from my 70 car. The PO had installed 93mm bus pistons and 2.0L bus heads making a 80hp 1.7 into a 67hp bus motor, junk!)

Kevin Powers · 01-12-2003, 10:44 AM

before you purchase a 5 gal bucket of material that is a nightmare to dipose of consider the following. i you choose to have a pro do your guides and seats they will clean them first anyway. while the heads are off r&r the exhaust man studs and get brand new nuts (the correct ones) for reassembly. changing those out with the heads off is easier than laying on your back taping out the hole for a step up stud to replace the one, two, three... that you probably will break. if the co that does your heads does'nt recommend this procedure turn around and walk away. they don't know what they are doing.

kevin

Bleyseng · Bleyseng's Garage

Here is a2.0 914 engine for sale:
914 2.0 GA Motor For Sale

JWest · 01-14-2003, 06:09 AM

I did not see this mentioned, and it may be moot if you are going to get a different engine or heads, but those are not a matched set of heads.

The upper head is from a 1.8L and the lower head appears to be a bus 2.0L head. The combustion chambers have a different shape.

DuckRyder · 01-14-2003, 06:42 AM

Quote:

but those are not a matched set of heads.

Good catch, I hadn't noticed.

Jake Raby · 01-14-2003, 08:12 AM

One head is a 1.8 Porsche head, the other is a 2.0 Bus head......

to find the condition of the chambers, thay have to be beadblasted, no way around it at all....I have a spare 1.8 core head, forget those bus heads, they suck for power. Look at that smog chamber!

Dave at Pelican Parts · Dave at Pelican Parts's Garage

Wow, that is a good catch!

Re the "GB" motors: They aren't made out of "unobtainium", they're made out of "Europeum". That was the Euro-spec 2.0 914 motor--and the only real difference between the US-spec and Euro-spec ones was the pistons had a smaller dish, resulting in 8.0:1 compression (versus 7.6:1 in the US motor). The pistons are available separately.

The only reason I wouldn't start with a GE case for a 914 motor is that you have to add the dipstick and dipstick tube to it. I think it's a bit easier to just start with one that has it in the right location, and that finding an actual 914 motor of some kind is easy enough to be worth not having to add it.

--DD

Bleyseng · Bleyseng's Garage

Here is a link for some 914 2.0L heads that are rebuilt.
http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum5/HTML/000518.html
Cheap at $300 each
Geoff

bander · 01-14-2003, 09:45 AM

You may want to check with Boston Bob. He is the only WV engine rebuilder in the area that I know of. He helped me out when I was in a jam. He is a lot like most of us, a little crazy, and has lots of ideas, some of which are good.

http://www.bostonengine.com/