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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 183
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2.0 rebuild or sale?
I have been planning a V8 conversion (already have an engine) but havent started the process of buying parts yet. I haven't even pulled the 2.0L engine out of the rust free car I bought a couple of months ago. I was told by the PO that when he got the car 3 years ago it already had 9.5:1 Mahle pistons and a hotter cam by Elgin ("just about right for the street"). He then "rebuilt" the engine but failed to have the case matched and line bored which he believes is the reason for an oil leak coming from the bellhousing area. During the rebuild of the engine (which only has a couple of AX's and 1 track day) all the seals were replaced, heads were done - valve job done & cylinders honed, new rings, bearings, etc. It reportedly dynoed at 130hp before he "rebuilt" it. He did not replace cylinders or pistons and case was not matched/line bored. I got it started before pulling the fuel cell and it sounded pretty nice, So I'm kinda thinking about just keeping it instead of doing the V8 (undecided). To keep it what would need to be done besides the line boring and resealing and approximately how much would that cost? Would it be wise to spend the extra money on new cylinders and pistons while it's out and again what kind of money am I looking at? I would probably be going to spend atleast $3500 on conversion parts when it's all said and done.. would a rebuild of the 2.0l be much less. Things that I need to consider are: a) I want AC for the street so is that a big advantage for the V8? b) I want to use the car for track day's and maybe racing which is probably a nod for the 2.0L c) money for conversion vs rebuild.
BTW, the car will primarely be an everyday driver and currently has dual 44mm webers and a header. Please submit experiences and opinions - much appreciated! Doug C |
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Registered
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I would go ahead and rebuild the 2.0. I may be wrong but i think not being align bored would not cause a leak. The align bore is to line up the main bearings. The leak could be from a faulty seal, improper installation of seal, or other things. As long as the pistons and all other parts look well I would reuse them with the low use. Just make sure that you put followers(lifters) and rods back where you pulled them out. This is so you match any wear pattern to the cam.
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76 914 2.0 (critical condition) 73 914 1.7 (new project) 04 Pontiac Aztek (parts hauler) |
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grind weld build
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what sanctioning body do you race under? PCA? SCCA? POC? I can tell you that pca ZONE 8 sdr DOES NOT REALLY like V8 914s. If they let you run, it will be in X class wiht the purpose-built cars. we have a very high participation level and Pure Porsche cars come first in teh racing sign up pecking order. I LOVE my V8 car, I would not trade it for the world...but I am building a 1.8 L Jet to race in AS/S class
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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Administrator
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Ditto to both of those.
Step Zero when racing is always RTFR--Read The Rulebook. And align-boring is not something that you "always" do to a Type IV (as you do for a Type I Bug motor); in fact for many years you never align-bored a Type IV. They're old enough and worn enough that some of them actually di require it now, but they won't cause oil to leak out of the bellhousing. I would start by pulling the trans and flywheel and looking to see where the oil is coming from. If the oil stinks of sulfur, you actually have a transmission leak which could be the input shaft seal or the ball-stud that the throwout arm rides on. Oil leaks would be from the engine, and could be from the main seal, the cam plug, or one of several gallery plugs. If the cam plug or a gallery plug is loose, it could simply blow out on you one day causing you to dump all your engine oil on the ground. Messy, and potentially fatal for the motor. --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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