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Longhoods Unite!
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took 2.0 motor apart too long ago to remember how it came apart. case was never split, heads never removed, but looking for an assembly order so i'm not taking things off to put other things on.
basically need front fan & alternator, sheet metal and intake and ignition and electrical. I have a Haynes manual, but was hoping for some other resources. also if there is a good remating of tranmission to engine and clutch install procedure. thank you thank you!
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1970 911T -- Neglected, oil burning problem, batman smoke 1974 914 2.0 Weber'd -- new project!! **My Wife and I bought our first house in August of 2009, the footprint of the house is just over 1100 sq. ft...my garage is just over 1000 sq. ft. We compromise well ![]() |
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Administrator
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I would put the fan shroud on first. The engine tin piece on top of the oil cooler and in front of the right side cylinders should be next, then the engine cooling flaps. (Those MUST BE USED; you cannot get good air flow through the cooler without them!) Then the rest of the engine tin, probably starting with the piece in front of the left-side cylinders and moving on to the larger pieces. Don't forget the ones that go up against the cylinders on the underside!! Oh, there is a bracket that holds the wire from the temp sender that goes on one of the oil cooler bracket bolts; make sure it is in place (and the cooler bracket for that matter!) before putting the right-side engine tin on.
I would leave off the two front pieces of tin until the alternator and cooling fan and such are installed, as it will make access a bit easier. The cable for the thermostat can be threaded up through the engine tin after the latter is in place. The alternator and its short cover can go on after that is done; make sure to hook up the rubber cooling boot as well. The fan can go on next, as long as the fan hub is still attached to the crankshaft. Then the front engine tin pieces should go on. Exhaust can go on now or after the engine is in the car, there are trade-offs each way. Then the stuff on top of the engine, either FI manifolds or carb manifolds and such. Electrical generally goes on after all of that. Mating up the transmission to the engine is pretty straightforward. You have to support both the engine and the trans, and be able to maneuver the trans around to line it up. Use a clutch alignment tool to line up the clutch disk inside the clutch assembly, then start pushing the trans onto the motor. Make sure it goes all the way on, with no gap around the bellhousing. If there is a gap, there's a good chance the input shaft splines are not mating with the clutch disk splines. Put the trans in gear, lock one output flange (a large screw or some vise-grips or something) and twist the other output flange while pushing the trans forward. Stop twisting when the assembly slides forward flush with the flywheel end of the crankcase. The lower two studs are just studs, and take nuts. The upper two are bolts that go through from the transmission side, with the nuts on the engine side. The upper-left one in particular goes through the starter and is one of the bolts that holds the starter on, so it gets done after the starter is put in place. When you re-install the drivetrain, don't forget the transmission ground strap! --DD
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Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling |
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Longhoods Unite!
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Dave!! Thank you!! I was totally expecting radio silence or a link...holy crap, thank you for the help!!!
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