Never Try to Replace the Fuzzy in the Window Fuzzy Channel

douglas robbins · 01-28-2003, 05:19 PM

I recently got some window fuzz and window squeegees from PP. Installing the squeegee was a snap with some silicon spray to lubricate the installation.

But removing the alumninum fuzzy channel rail that is screwed into the door in order to replace the window fuzz was a total nightmare. The little screws that attach the fuzzy channel to the door were rusted solid and after dremmeling and drilling for three weekeneds I finally got the fuzzy channel out. I partially mangled the fuzzy channel in the process, but luckily it was not so far gone to be unusable. The whole process was such an incredible hassle that instead of replacing the fuzz on one door I decided to leave the other door's fuzz alone. I just washed the other door's old fuzz with a soft nylon brush, soap and water and it looked pretty good.

Douglas

Amark · 01-28-2003, 07:24 PM

I removed a set of those on some replacement doors I have.

The first one was a nightmare. Took a couple of hours. Ended up cutting the heads off the screws with a die grinder & unscrewing them from behind w/ small pair of vise grips.

On the second door I sprayed the screws w/ some penetrating oil first. The screws came right out.

I plan on buying stainless screws when I re-install the tracks.

You might give it a try.

Mark

bhuey · 01-30-2003, 10:39 AM

Thank you for the information! I am getting ready to tackle this project myself. Will replacing the felt and squeege prevent water from getting into the door? My door panels are rotting on the bottom and have to be replaced.

Thanks,
Bud

douglas robbins · 01-30-2003, 05:50 PM

Bud,

Replacing the felt and squeegee will help to minimize the water but will not eliminate it. You will always get some water in your door. To prevent future rot of your door panels make sure the plastic sheet that covers the door and separates the door from the panel is fixed in place with black silicon sealant.

If you are missing the plastic sheet, go buy some tough plastic sheeting at the hardware store (ususally used for roofing I think) and glue the sheet on all sides with black silicon sealant. The sealant is waterproof but stays flexable so that you can remove the sheet at a later date as necessary.

As a last way to prevent water from coming into the door, make sure that the rubber for your triangle window is complete and sealing the door effectively.

Douglas

Biggy72 · Biggy72's Garage

how much are those? I just pulled mine off gettin ready for paint and my old ones are completely shot.

bhuey · 01-31-2003, 07:48 AM

Douglas,

Thank you for the information!

Bud

douglas robbins · 01-31-2003, 12:17 PM

Biggie,

The fuzz is about $28 per strip from PP. It's not a bad deal considering that it is an authentic factory Porsche part in the bag. Getting it installed in the fuzzy channel without mangling it takes a little technique. I'll try to describe it, if you're interested.

Douglas

bhuey · 01-31-2003, 12:32 PM

I would like to see the description! Please email it to me if you do not want to post it here.

Thanks,
Bud

budhuey@mindspring.com

Biggy72 · Biggy72's Garage

well I don't care if it's authentic as long as it works....I'm more into a cheaper better working part than an original one. And ya I'd like to know how all of that goes back together.
Thanks

douglas robbins · 01-31-2003, 04:07 PM

The fuzz will not slide into the rail (I've been calling it the "fuzzy channel" but you can also call it a "rail"). Any attempt will just tear the fabric.

Instead, line up the fuzz on the rail with the little holes for the screws lining up with the holes for the screws in the rail. Make sure each end extends the full lenght of the rail. You don't want bare rail on one end or the other.

Now tilt the fuzz so that at one long side tucks into the rail lip. Now that you've got one side (call it the 1st side) in the rail lip you'll notice that the other side won't fit into the opposite lip (call the opposite lip the 2d lip). You will have to finesse it in. Here's how.

Find clean pliers that bite in a small area. You don't want needle nose pliers because they bite, typically, all along the lenght of the nose to the back where the joints meet. I like pliers with the angled head.

Take the clean pair of pliers and very carefully and slowly press the fuzz into the 2d lip. You want to press the fuzz with the pliers close to the 2d lip so that the fuzz sort of bows outward and fits into the rail (you'll fix the bow later). You want to start with the fuzz on one edge of the lenght and slowly work left to right (or right to left; it doesn' tmatter) untill the whole lenght of the fuzz fits into the rail.

Now parts of the fuzz are bowed out. Go back over the rail and with the pliers, carefully flatten out the bow. It's not all that easy because the lips on the edge of the rail get in your way and it's easy to scar the rail because it appears to be made out of aluminum, a soft metal.

That should do it.

If this description was confusing let me know.

Douglas