Clutch question

[sasquatch]

I have a question about the clutch in my 74 1.8. I need to replace it and I really do not want to drip the entire powerplant. It looks, from inspeciton, that I can remove just the transmission really easily as long as I support the rear of the engine with a jack. Is this true, or am I missing something?

Next issue. Years ago when I worked in an import parts house (primarily VW), we used to sell Type 2 vanagon clutch assemblies to people who did not want to spend the high price for the porsche parts. I never heard any negative feedback. Again, am I missing anything. A Sachs clutch disk for a 914 is between $90-110 depending on source. A Sachs disk for a type II transporter (1.8 liter, same engine) is $49.

Any input?

[sasquatch]

Drip the powerplant??? Can I not type or what? Drop the power plant.

[BenI]

I have done this job many times and you are right-do not drop the engine.

-Jack up the rear end.
-Remove everthing from the tranny, including the CV joints, don't forget the ground strap
-Put a jack stand under the engine
-Put your jack under the tranny
-remove the rear tranny mount bolts
-remove the tranny to engine nuts
-Carefully pull the tranny and jack back, and lower the tranny when it is clear.


Ive done the job by leaving the CVs intact and just pulling the tranny back some, but removing it completely is MUCH easier. Good luck!

[Zeke]

I think you are on to something with the clutch. Years ago when there were more parts available for 914s at the dealer, the VW dealer parts counter had a cross-referrence list and it saved me a ton of money. But is the bus flywheel the same size? If it is, I say do it.

[JWest]

I think the bus is 228mm and teh 914 is 215mm.

[norustscott]

I bought a bus disk...SACHS. six springs too. I don't think it was that much cheaper. 15 bucks. it is the same diameter. In fact, I think it is the exact disc.

[sasquatch]

Thanks guys, 215mm bus disk it is...... Now with all that money I save, I can have a Pepsi at lunch today

Actually, I found the bus disk (Sachs) for $49. Now if I can find a cross for the $82 throw out bearings...

[philinjax]

BenI is right about pulling the tranny and leaving the engine in but, I would add loosening the outboard engine mount bolts and backing them off 5 or so turns. This will help you tilt the engine back a bit and make it easier to pull the tranny out and prevents bending the outboard and inboard engine mount fixtures. I also remove the air cleaner and if the engine has dual carbs, I remove the intake manifold to head nuts too, leaving all the linkage hang loose. You don't have to tilt the engine very much before the carbs or air cleaner on FI engines will contact the rear
engine compartment bulkhead.
Phil

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Tilt the rear of the engine downward.

I believe that the 215mm Bus clutch disk can be used, as can the pressure plate. The flywheel is 914-only.

I have heard that the larger Bus clutch setup can be adapted--but you have to use the Bus flywheel and figure out how to deal with the pilot bearing.

--DD

[norustscott]

I did repack my TO bearing. I know ther are a lot of guys that would laugh at me for doing so. It does work. I bought a cheap plastice cone bearing packer and had a go at it. I first cleaned the bearing with solvent after which I pumped in thick High temp bearing grease.

Next, I heated the bearing with a heat gun to simulate engine and clutch heat. I devise a way to spin the bearing @ about 3.5K rpm ...I will not go into the details, I will just say that I took the proper safty precautions. This spun the excess grease out of the bearing. Not much came out either, I was surprised.

I have had it in know for about 1k miles. I feel it will go for 50K easy. I think the key is to use grease that will not breakdown with heat and end up in the bell housing. I will update should anything go wrong...