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Getting into door when it won’t open
Dumb question- the door is worn out - I need to get in there. Neither handle opens it. I started unscrewing the components- any tips?
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I've had it that the outside handle was partially open, which then did not allow to unlock. In those instances I've had to get the inside door panel partially off, unmount the window mechanism, remove the window, and then take the 2 8mm screws out that hold a plate hiding the mechanism and then unhooking the outside door handle from the lock. Once done, the door lock can be activated and the inside handle will open.
hope that helps. |
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Um, through the back hatch?
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1989 944 Turbo 2004 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited - Built! 1985 Saurer 6dm overland Swiss military truck/camper |
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Um, and that opens the door how?
Really the only way is to remove the inside door trim, which is a task in itself with the door closed but it can be done, then use a long hook inside the door panel to operate the latch.
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Mike A 9TECHNIK | TRANSAXLE ÄRA 1986 944 (Street); 1986 944 (Track); 1986 951; 1989 951 (3.0L 8V); 2000 996 Cab. |
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did the pull cable from the interior door handle fall off, that you cant remove the handle and grab it with pliers?
like 9FF said it's possible to remove the door panel with the door shut but it is difficult. |
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Hey thanks everyone! Even the “back hatch” suggestion- LOL! But jem60’s encouraging comment was what gave me confidence here - thanks!
I got the door opened up! As I struggle it’d be helpful to know the answer to another dumb question: Now that the handle and other things are detached, if the door shuts - how do I get it open again? How about duct taping the latch? Last edited by Bukowski; 01-21-2019 at 08:50 AM.. |
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I got it!
From the outside, push the now-detached “door handle lever” down. Door opens.... OBVIOUSLY, right, that’s how it works. I’ll look for a Clark’s tutorial, thought I saw one... Oh another question: how does the white wire come out of the handle? The screw is starting to strip, even with Kroil... the handle is junk, so I can cut it, but can’t tell how far in the wire goes. |
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If you can get the window down, then you can try different combinations of things pulling on the lock, the inside release and the outside release at the same time and hopefully it pops. Then you can fix whatever is loose.
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I got it!
The wire is in fact part 911 613 133 00 (superseded to 964 613 134 00), “microswitch” because my car is M341 “central locking system”. The plug is found about midway on the lower part of inner door, the clips (about 4), sort of open up somehow by simply using fingers (it’s near impossible to see each one). The wire then feeds all the way out the outer opening. By the way the door handle has number 944 537 062 00 on the inside. The Clark’s tutorial doesn’t cover the micro switch detail. |
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The 'back hatch' method is for getting into the car, when all else fails. Apparently this dose not apply to said problem.
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I didn't mean to make fun - the question itself was poorly worded, and in fact I expected some answers like this!
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got some pics of the handle assembly with this "microswitch" attached.
![]() ![]() ![]() 1. is this handle-and-microswitch assembly actually broken? I imagine the spot where the black paint is worn out to show the gray metal beneath is either worn to the point it isn't long enough. 2. how does this disassemble? I took the Phillips screw out, but nothing budges after that. The apparently brass flathead screw is quickly headed for stripped-dom. Apparently, most of the stuff here should come out, judging from the parts manual.
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some exterior views
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What you are calling a microswitch is, I believe the lock heater. Has nothing to do with the central lock mechanism. The electric locker is a separate motor with a plunger mounted on the door frame and connects to the lock on the latch, not to the door handle.
The connector piece (in the 3rd & 4th photos above) needs to come out - just pop the plastic end off the metal ball inside the door. You are missing the split-pin that connects that aluminum(?) piece to the door handle itself. That pin is tiny and may be in the door somewhere - try a magnet. Take that piece out and you'll see how it fits onto the door handle. The bracket (with the two holes) pivots on the split-pin you are missing. By the way - those are "script" handles and are worth a lot (compared to the regular door handles) Good luck. Last edited by theer; 01-28-2019 at 02:51 PM.. |
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I took the pin out - that’s how I got the handle separated.
Heater - that is intriguing. A potential source of parasitic drain perhaps? And how does it work or turn on? So.... How does the “tumbler” I think come out? What is broken here? Oh I forgot: I cleaned the handle thoroughly as I could and the key still cannot turn the tumbler. I tried engaging and disengaging the central lock - no help. The tumbler has been doing this for years, but the past year the lever on the handle became dead. Meanwhile I’ll try to clean up the inner assemblies, and apply white lithium grease... or maybe better a dry lube, like that Teflon stuff in the home center... |
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Not sure how the lock heater works - probably works on the same principle as the heated mirrors.. not sure how those "know" to turn on, either. Check your owner's manual, or the interwebs for a wiring diagram.
If the handle is all connected and the door won't open, then you may need to adjust the length of the connector rod (make it longer). Also, try spraying some lube all over the moving parts of the latch mechanism inside the door. The lock tumbler comes out by removing the Phillips head screw on the back (first picture in post #11). Be careful not to lose the spring under there. You may also need to remove the lock heater - I don't recall anymore. With the key in the lock cylinder, it should slide out. If the key as some point did turn the lock, but does not anymore, then the key is worn out and may need replacing. |
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The micro switch locks/unlocks the opposite door.
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Aha - that makes sense. I don't have those fancy things in mine!
Thanks for clarifying, Thomas. |
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