Getting Key Made for Alarm
 

Today i took my Factory Alarm Key "Mechanism" or "Cylinder" out to bring it into a lock smith so i could have a key fitted for it, since the owner didnt give me a key when i bought it. Im not sure if the Alarm system will even work once i get the key but i'll give it a shot. The wierd thing is when the 2 wires that connect to the key lock are unhooked, the car will not start and a clicking sound comes from the DME or near it. I tried putting the 2 wires together but it doesnt start unless it is hooked up. That seems weird to me. The lock smith is going to cut the back off of the key mechanism, and take it apart to make the key, and then glue it back together. I had to go this route because the Factory stopped cutting keys for the Alarms since the keys are slightly shorter then the ignition keys.....Weird! Well its 3 AM, good night.

John

I was just quoted a new switch as costing $78 nat my Porsche dealer. Let me know how yours works when you are done. I was thinking of just buying a generic key switch for it, but from your posting itr appears something else is going on in there. The switch probably grounds one of the wires when in one position and connects the wires in another?

I just got it back yesterday and it all works fine, it makes it so my car wont start when turned on but my car doesnt honk like its suppose to. But as far as the key goes, it worked good.

John

Oh yah it ended up costing almost $45

I don't have key either. Was going to install a generic but it won't work. Checked for grounding to chassis when switch is off- nope!

I think I'll go dealer switch route; seems a shame not to use factory alarm.

How did you remove the fixture from the fender???

Like most, I also didn't get a key when I bought my car!!

Also...I am a bit unsure on where you go the key for the alarm?? Custom key or can you buy them from some source??

I've been lucky getting replacement alarm keys from the dealer. Haven't bought one in a while but they should still be available. However, I haven't been able to get any blanks for the wheel lock keys, any suggestions there?

I'm wondering if there is a resistor in the switch? I just looked at the elec schematics and there are two resistors of unknown values in the switch. That is why strait grounding of the wires won't work.

That could very well be true. I know it was the same way for my 5 series beemer.

will944,

to remove alarm switch: pry off black plastic surround, then a nut is exposed. Open driver's door, remove vent in door jam; your hand should just fit. Two terminal lugs on switch. Plenty of slack in harness to extract switch through door jam.

Repoman,

Really appreciate the help on this topic. Doesn't seem difficult at all...

Have a good one

Oh, while fixing my horn I noticed the second horn did not get any power when the horn button is pressed. Is the second horn the alarm horn? If so, the contacts may be corroded, or someone like me removed the second horn thinking it was broken.

I've heard that a SAAB key blank can be used somehow.

My high-note horn works; it's also wired to alarm. My low-note horn is kaput but car came with a horn in trunk.

I'm usually not a big fan of "progress" but...

now that econoboxes come with 18" alloys, theft of 15" alloys isn't that big of a problem that it was in the '80s.

I had a key but 3 locks were corroded shut. I drilled 'em all.