air conditioning dilemmas : conversion and downgrade questions

[Bukowski]

trying to get an idea of two big things :

[1] R134A conversion of the air conditioning system : I already have the new condenser and new condenser-compressor hose, and new drier installed. I outsourced the R134A conversion, which resulted in the old compressor working for a day, then it died - oil leaking out. Now, the compressor bearing is making a lot of noise - this will not end well for the electrical charging system. I do not know the oil that was used.

-> Is PET illustration 813-15 sufficient to know which pipes to disassemble and install the new seals?

-> How many pipes and seals need to be removed, and what kinds of parts need to be removed just to access the pipes?

-> can this job be performed piecemeal - removing a pipe, sealing the ends, and leaving it while the car is driven around until the next pipe is removed? So far, I have done this for the condenser, drier, and the condenser-compressor hose.

[2] ac delete brackets : from what I gathered, the only way to delete the compressor is to relocate the alternator? How long will this take - as long as installing a new air conditioning compressor?

[9FF]

On [2] you remove the compressor, alternator and bracket that attaches them to the engine then you fit the a/c delete bracket, remount the alternator and fit a new shorter belt. The bracket and belt are available from the dealer and it’s not a hard job, maybe 1-2 hours if you work slowly.

Here’s a factory a/c delete bracket mounted to one of my engines. Please excuse the dirt as I’m just dismantling it before it gets professionally cleaned.

[Pauld_94S2]

-> Is PET illustration 813-15 sufficient to know which pipes to disassemble and install the new seals? YES

-> How many pipes and seals need to be removed, and what kinds of parts need to be removed just to access the pipes? Leave the pipes along, just put new O-rings on the compressor, drier, and condensor, the TX valve and evap should be fine.

-> can this job be performed piecemeal - removing a pipe, sealing the ends, and leaving it while the car is driven around until the next pipe is removed? So far, I have done this for the condenser, drier, and the condenser-compressor hose. YES

For the compressor, if you need ot buy time to buy a replacement, see if you can buy a used one that leaks but has a good clutch bearing. Install it in place of your bad one and then proceed with the AC repairs. Or buy a replacement and get the AC working for the rest of the summer.

You might be able to get a good one from

https://plyhammersparts.com/
or
https://www.porsche944usedparts.com/apps/webstore/

[Bukowski]

9FF and Paul_94S2 - very useful and interesting replies, thanks!...

[Bukowski]

I’m looking at the Griffiths hoses on offer and the PET illustration 813-15. Some hoses don’t seem at all the same length - consider

part no. 35 : 944 573 091 05 (87-, 944)

This line goes all the way around the engine bay through the firewall. I do not see a Griffiths hose at all close to that length. Am I missing something? Part no. 23 is similar in this regard. I have installed Griffiths 944-573-097-11-M207, and that appears to be part no. 7, number 944 573 197 08. It fits but why the discrepancy in numbers?

[mattdavis11]

If the nose bearing is making noise, the shaft seal has let go. It might be the only leak you have and can forget about the hoses altogether. Santech sells new seals for the compressor and autozone can source them. I can get you all the part numbers for a compressor re-seal tonight if you need. I may have posted them before, so a search may be all you need to do.

[Bukowski]

...

forum error, sorry.