What did I do now? Broken down - side of road
 

Check your axles. That banging might be the axle flopping around after the cage broke. The rubber boot may be hiding the destruction. Wiggle each axle at all 4 joints/boots, it will be clear if you broke an axle.

This exact scenario happened to me, and although visual inspection of the axle looked ok, as soon as I wiggled the axle shaft it was apparent what had happend.

If your axles are good, I would then check the trans to driveshaft coupler through the inspection port on the trans bellhousing. If that looks good then suspect something with the clutch/flywheel or internal on the trans, like you said, diff.

Ring gear

Busted CV joint

Probably a broken cv joint, inside the boot.

Busted CV joint is the culprit.... This is what I get for trying to go cheap.

Thanks everyone!

Cheap? Used? Loebro? Do tell!

DriveTech USA... I bought them off Amazon as complete units with the axles and CVs already together.

They're $144 and change for the pair, I guess I should have known.

They have a 12-month/12000 My warranty and they failed after about 13 months with less than a thousand miles on them

GHEN

The drive shaft has fingers that notch in with the clutch plate to limp home if you do break your rubber vibration dampener on the plate. Your CVs would make a clunking sound if they were going. I replaced mine when I heard some more noises out back. The sound is gone, and its smooth sailing. Easy fix...:cool:

You may want to contact DriveTech
 

A conscientious manufacturer should welcome failure reports from the field in order to improve their products. Perhaps you just got the one bad axle of the production run? Since it is close to the warranty maybe they will make it right anyway.

According to their web site: All DTA axles are stamped with identification information in the middle shaft for quality tracking.

I have no knowledge of or connection with DriveTech, but I do know everyone makes mistakes. Good luck.

Im not sure if yours is an early or late model, but the PO had installed some cheap Rock Auto axles on my 89 S2 - I think those, combined with a worn trans mount, caused one of my joints to blow up.

As many have posted on these forums, I discovered the VW bus/vanagon type 2 CV joints (33 spline, EMPI part number 87-9917) are identical to the porsche joints, and although the VW shafts are thinner (sold separately), they are compatible with my existing 33 spline porsche shafts (which are thicker). They also make an upgraded chrome moly cage 98-5084 if you are so inclined. I just popped the existing joints off the shafts and replaced them with the VW joints, re-greased and sealed boots. I have used EMPI parts on my VWs for years and they seem to be high quality.

The standard type 2 joints only cost around $140 (chrome moly around $280) for all 4, and you can use your existing shafts, assuming they are 33 spline. I am running these for the last year and they have been great so far and you cant beat the price. In my opinion this is the highest quality, lowest price axle replacement route besides OEM ($$$), at $70 per axle, youll be hard pressed to find better. Aftermarket axles from Rock Auto et al are almost always cheap and horrible quality..

I contacted Drive Tech, they said "It's probably a fluke" and weren't interested getting their hands on them to do any fact-finding. They said the most they would do is offer me a discount on a new set.

Since these failed after approximately 200 miles I'll not be taking them up on their offer.

GHEN

This is a great post, and incredibly these bits are available cheap on Alexa-zon.