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What did I do now? Broken down - side of road

Hi All,

I was driving my car in 2nd gear about 30MPH when I heard a "bang". RPMs went quite high and no power. Car was still running but it was as if it was not in gear.

I got it to the side of the road and to a stop. I then tried to take off in 1st, but heard a mild clanking sound like something was spinning but not catching.

I'd been told that even if the rubber gave way on the clutch, there are metal teeth that would allow me to limp it along but that didn't happen.

Visual inspection shows the half shafts ARE in place.

Thinking it might be the differential, I pushed it backwards about 5 feet and tried again...same thing; just that clunking sound like something is spinning and not catching.

Nothing is dripping from the car.

1987 NA coupe, I assume it has the original clutch approximately 96K for miles.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

GHEN

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'87 944
Old 05-21-2021, 07:04 AM
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Check your axles. That banging might be the axle flopping around after the cage broke. The rubber boot may be hiding the destruction. Wiggle each axle at all 4 joints/boots, it will be clear if you broke an axle.

This exact scenario happened to me, and although visual inspection of the axle looked ok, as soon as I wiggled the axle shaft it was apparent what had happend.

If your axles are good, I would then check the trans to driveshaft coupler through the inspection port on the trans bellhousing. If that looks good then suspect something with the clutch/flywheel or internal on the trans, like you said, diff.
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Tyler from Wisconsin, 1989 944 S2 on Megasquirt PNP

Last edited by walfreyydo; 05-21-2021 at 08:11 AM..
Old 05-21-2021, 08:03 AM
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Gone but not forgotten: 1971 914 First Car (SOLD) | 1972 914 rust bucket (SOLD) | 1986 944 Turbo (Murdered by a Chevy Truck on the freeway)
Current lineup: 1990 944 S2 Cabriolet - Long term project | 1971 914 - Long term project #2 | 1971 914 - Driver
Old 05-21-2021, 08:08 AM
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Busted CV joint
Old 05-21-2021, 07:53 PM
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Probably a broken cv joint, inside the boot.
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Old 05-22-2021, 03:07 AM
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Busted CV joint is the culprit.... This is what I get for trying to go cheap.

Thanks everyone!
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'87 944
Old 05-22-2021, 04:58 AM
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Cheap? Used? Loebro? Do tell!
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? «

"DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc
Old 05-22-2021, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta View Post
Cheap? Used? Loebro? Do tell!
DriveTech USA... I bought them off Amazon as complete units with the axles and CVs already together.

They're $144 and change for the pair, I guess I should have known.

They have a 12-month/12000 My warranty and they failed after about 13 months with less than a thousand miles on them

GHEN
Old 05-22-2021, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHEN View Post
Hi All,

I was driving my car in 2nd gear about 30MPH when I heard a "bang". RPMs went quite high and no power. Car was still running but it was as if it was not in gear.

I got it to the side of the road and to a stop. I then tried to take off in 1st, but heard a mild clanking sound like something was spinning but not catching.

I'd been told that even if the rubber gave way on the clutch, there are metal teeth that would allow me to limp it along but that didn't happen.

Visual inspection shows the half shafts ARE in place.

Thinking it might be the differential, I pushed it backwards about 5 feet and tried again...same thing; just that clunking sound like something is spinning and not catching.

Nothing is dripping from the car.

1987 NA coupe, I assume it has the original clutch approximately 96K for miles.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

GHEN
The drive shaft has fingers that notch in with the clutch plate to limp home if you do break your rubber vibration dampener on the plate. Your CVs would make a clunking sound if they were going. I replaced mine when I heard some more noises out back. The sound is gone, and its smooth sailing. Easy fix...
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Old 05-23-2021, 07:27 AM
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You may want to contact DriveTech

A conscientious manufacturer should welcome failure reports from the field in order to improve their products. Perhaps you just got the one bad axle of the production run? Since it is close to the warranty maybe they will make it right anyway.

According to their web site: All DTA axles are stamped with identification information in the middle shaft for quality tracking.

I have no knowledge of or connection with DriveTech, but I do know everyone makes mistakes. Good luck.
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Old 05-23-2021, 12:53 PM
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Im not sure if yours is an early or late model, but the PO had installed some cheap Rock Auto axles on my 89 S2 - I think those, combined with a worn trans mount, caused one of my joints to blow up.

As many have posted on these forums, I discovered the VW bus/vanagon type 2 CV joints (33 spline, EMPI part number 87-9917) are identical to the porsche joints, and although the VW shafts are thinner (sold separately), they are compatible with my existing 33 spline porsche shafts (which are thicker). They also make an upgraded chrome moly cage 98-5084 if you are so inclined. I just popped the existing joints off the shafts and replaced them with the VW joints, re-greased and sealed boots. I have used EMPI parts on my VWs for years and they seem to be high quality.

The standard type 2 joints only cost around $140 (chrome moly around $280) for all 4, and you can use your existing shafts, assuming they are 33 spline. I am running these for the last year and they have been great so far and you cant beat the price. In my opinion this is the highest quality, lowest price axle replacement route besides OEM ($$$), at $70 per axle, youll be hard pressed to find better. Aftermarket axles from Rock Auto et al are almost always cheap and horrible quality..
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Tyler from Wisconsin, 1989 944 S2 on Megasquirt PNP

Last edited by walfreyydo; 05-24-2021 at 06:51 AM..
Old 05-24-2021, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Silver924S View Post
A conscientious manufacturer should welcome failure reports from the field in order to improve their products. Perhaps you just got the one bad axle of the production run? Since it is close to the warranty maybe they will make it right anyway.

According to their web site: All DTA axles are stamped with identification information in the middle shaft for quality tracking.

I have no knowledge of or connection with DriveTech, but I do know everyone makes mistakes. Good luck.
I contacted Drive Tech, they said "It's probably a fluke" and weren't interested getting their hands on them to do any fact-finding. They said the most they would do is offer me a discount on a new set.

Since these failed after approximately 200 miles I'll not be taking them up on their offer.

GHEN
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Old 05-24-2021, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walfreyydo View Post
CV joints - EMPI # 87-9917
HD CV Joints (upgraded chrome moly cage) EMPI # 98-5084
This is a great post, and incredibly these bits are available cheap on Alexa-zon.

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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? «

"DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc
Old 05-24-2021, 10:20 AM
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