Remote RF Control For Rear Hatch?

[OK-944]

I guess I was thinking more of a possible RF signal from another source inadvertently activating the circuit and causing the hatch to open or at least unlatch itself. But maybe this would not be an issue?

[originalowner]

Mine still hasn't come, even though I ordered before you. Can you check the quiescent current? I'd like to know how much it draws while waiting.

[944 Ecology]

never mind

[944 Ecology]

never mind

[originalowner]

George, I don't know how that is working for you. You must have a new style car as the wire colors do not match my older one. Looking at the newer schematic, I find the following: Injecting power into the red/white wire should short out with the motor in the park position. The current travels through the normally closed contact of the manual switch, then through the white wire to the park contact of the motor, to brown and to ground.

I'd be really leery of what you have hooked up. Some variation of the schematic in post 4 is needed. Again, if/when I do this, I will add a disable for when the ignition is on for safety.

[944 Ecology]

never mind

[originalowner]

I've looked at the 86 Turbo schematic, page 4. My comments stand.

[944 Ecology]

Never mind

[OK-944]

George that looks great!

Question: How does the unit operate with the remote a bit farther away...say five to ten feet - starting with the hatch closed?

[944 Ecology]

never mind

[originalowner]

Measured standby current for the module is 5.9mA. Not quite in spec, but not really worth worrying about. Looking forward to installing it soon.

BTW, I had an epiphany in the night a few days ago. The perfect signal for disabling it while the car is moving is the automatic sunroof lock signal. Since this is available very nearby the motor, I'll be putting my module in the rear as well now.

[originalowner]

Working perfectly, installed per onZedge schematic plus added relay to cut power from sunroof lock signal (grey with black stripe on both old and new schematics.) Does not operate with vehicle moving above threshold speed.

[ELew502]

Thanks for the information guys, but I wanted to give a heads up for others that the wire colors you specified in the wiring diagram are different at least for my 86 951. It is worth checking your installation as it makes a difference!

I've been working on installing a keyless entry/ alarm system since the original alarm cratered and I thought I might as well automate the hatch as well. My installation matches the "Sheet 5" (HVAC, seats, wipers) and uses Blue for power in (pin 2/ NO position), White for NC position (pin 3), and red/white for Common out (pin 1).



I was still able to use your suggested wiring after ordering a relay from Amazon. Works great when I manually ground the "85" wire, and when I use the original switch. Now I just have to figure out why the new alarm system is not grounding the output when I hit the trunk release button...

[ELew502]

Originally Posted by originalowner

George, I don't know how that is working for you. You must have a new style car as the wire colors do not match my older one. Looking at the newer schematic, I find the following: Injecting power into the red/white wire should short out with the motor in the park position. The current travels through the normally closed contact of the manual switch, then through the white wire to the park contact of the motor, to brown and to ground.

I'd be really leery of what you have hooked up. Some variation of the schematic in post 4 is needed. Again, if/when I do this, I will add a disable for when the ignition is on for safety.

Sorry - I posted without seeing all of this discussion as it was on page 2... Seems like I noticed the same thing that you did, only a few months later.
I was able to get the alarm to work - turns out I needed to hold the button down for 3 seconds. I updated all of my wiring diagrams after getting things where I wanted them. The subject portion is below.

[OK-944]

Nice to have this thread come back to life...and I'll look forward to making this (remote hatch lift) mod when the weather here warms up a bit.

[notny41]

Thank you!!!

[notny41]

Originally Posted by onZedge

Thank you so much for posting this schematic. I just bought one of the cheap $10 units off amazon and a cheap relay that actually fit inside the plastic housing of the keyless entry unit. Your diagram was perfect. Brilliant for coming up with this!!!!

I actually built an intermediate harness that plugs into each of the molex connectors (switch plug and harness plug) and did my wire cutting/splicing between my two plugs so as not to cut into any of the original wires on my car. That way it can be put back to original just by removing the harness I made. Now I just need to be able to fish it down from under the dash to the hole where the switch clips into.

@ELew502 - I have an 86 951 as well and I did notice the difference in colors for wires too - I just used my multimeter to determine which wires go where on the relay in reference to the original switch functions.

[djnolan]

I am highly skeptical of this idea. I have trouble getting my hatch open with a key, let alone with the switch. Also mine does not raise up by itself when unlocked. I open it with the key, manually raise it and use a prop rod.

[originalowner]

Originally Posted by notny41

I actually built an intermediate harness that plugs into each of the molex connectors (switch plug and harness plug) and did my wire cutting/splicing between my two plugs so as not to cut into any of the original wires on my car.

This is the way.

I wired mine in at the back.

[Monkey Wrench]

if the relay that comes with the remote switch is too small you can always piggyback on a larger relay. In that case the relay simply runs the pull in coil of a larger relay with higher amp contacts.