No Spark No Start!

[PHillary]

I have been driving my car more this week past then I have in about the last 5 months. With that being said I when to start the car up yesterday after a days work the car started just fine and ran for about 3mins before I could put the car in reverse it shut off now it will not start again? I thought maybe the fuel pump died so I change it along with the filter and strainer and nothing. After further diagnosis I noticed the car isn't getting any spark What controls the No Spark Issue? I have new plugs and wires and a somewhat new distributor cap? I have changed out the original ignition coil to a MSD ignition coil but I am about to switch back to stock just to rule it out Stock was working fine before I changed it but the MSD does allow a peppier rev. Not sure guys the only other thing is see if the alarms control box is the issue (is there anyway to remove the car alarm box altogether and just splice the wires needed for it to start or the control box must be connected for the alarm to be bypassed just would like to remove the alarms control box altogether and lastly I was thinking it could be the DME itself? What are you guys thoughts on this could the speed and reference sensors cause a no spark condition?

[Jfrahm]

You've been around a while. Did you look for tach bounce / tach twitch? Try a DME relay jumper? How do you know there is no spark?

[PHillary]

Originally Posted by Jfrahm

You've been around a while. Did you look for tach bounce / tach twitch? Try a DME relay jumper? How do you know there is no spark?

Well I know its no spark because the spark plugs are not arching. I did the old fashion test of removing on plug and grounding it out on the car and cranked it a few times it won't arch. No I did not try a DME relay jumper. I have the F9 technology diagnostic DME relay it is point to the ignition not firing which it is correct because the car isn't igniting. I will check the reference sensors and tech bounce this afternoon I believe it is moving but I will double check just to make sure. I kinda want to remove the alarm box completely and just splice the wires that need to be spliced together. Is there a known write on this?

[walfreyydo]

Paul youve been around long enough to know about Clarks garage, so why not follow the testing sequence and steps listed there:

https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-04.htm
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ts-01.htm
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-23.htm

[PHillary]

Originally Posted by walfreyydo

Paul youve been around long enough to know about Clarks garage, so why not follow the testing sequence and steps listed there:

https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-04.htm
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ts-01.htm
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-23.htm

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, I did double check the jumpers on the alarm and they are connected just like they have always been. I wanted to know if I could remove the alarm box altogether and just splice the wires that are jumped. Does the car need the alarm box attached?

Yes I have been around for a while but this is the first real No Start issue I have had since I got the car back from the dealership and I am kinda at a miss as to what is wrong with it normally its on turn and go and now that its not I am baffled. But nevertheless thank you for your help and I will try all of the articles you posted and see where that gets me.

[Jfrahm]

"I have the F9 technology diagnostic DME relay it is point to the ignition not firing "

If that means it's showing no power to the DME then there won't be tach bounce, ignition or injector pulse. It can't pick out ignition since the DME relay only sends power to the DME. Then if the DME sees a crank signal and responds with a fuel pump turn-on command the DME relay powers the fuel pump.

You could try jumpering the DME relay in case that gets you around the alarm, or working on the alarm or whatever is keeping the F9 from at least showing the red and yellow LEDs.
https://www.ftech9.com/new-products/993-ssr

Cheers, -Joel.

[PHillary]

Originally Posted by Jfrahm

"I have the F9 technology diagnostic DME relay it is point to the ignition not firing "

If that means it's showing no power to the DME then there won't be tach bounce, ignition or injector pulse. It can't pick out ignition since the DME relay only sends power to the DME. Then if the DME sees a crank signal and responds with a fuel pump turn-on command the DME relay powers the fuel pump.

You could try jumpering the DME relay in case that gets you around the alarm, or working on the alarm or whatever is keeping the F9 from at least showing the red and yellow LEDs.
https://www.ftech9.com/new-products/993-ssr

Cheers, -Joel.

Only the Yellow light powers on on the DME relay when I try to crank the car no other lights are illuminated? I can still try to jump the DME relay and see?

[Jfrahm]

Originally Posted by PHillary

Only the Yellow light powers on on the DME relay when I try to crank the car no other lights are illuminated? I can still try to jump the DME relay and see?

It's OK with me. If the alarm is at fault however it might not do much. It sounds like you have already bypassed the alarm? If it doesn't start with the DME relay bypassed you may need to check that alarm bypass wiring.

[Monkey Wrench]

you can hook up three - three position toggle switches so that in any position other than correct one the power goes to the horn and only the right sequence starts the car.. all you need is one path through the three switches in the run to to power fuel pump. the other wires all get interconnected and run to the horn or a siren.. you might want a different horn and leave the stock one alone...

If someone tries to start the car all it does is sound the horn, even if they slidehammer the ignition key out...

to start it, they need to find the three switches which can be in any location you choose, and put each one in the right spot to start it.

its how you build a cheap alarm,, thieves are normally too rushed and not bright enough to think there way around this very simple system.

If I need to park my car somewhere weird Ill often just take the rotor out..

[PHillary]

Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench

you can hook up three - three position toggle switches so that in any position other than correct one the power goes to the horn and only the right sequence starts the car.. all you need is one path through the three switches in the run to to power fuel pump. the other wires all get interconnected and run to the horn or a siren.. you might want a different horn and leave the stock one alone...

If someone tries to start the car all it does is sound the horn, even if they slidehammer the ignition key out...

to start it, they need to find the three switches which can be in any location you choose, and put each one in the right spot to start it.

its how you build a cheap alarm,, thieves are normally too rushed and not bright enough to think there way around this very simple system.

If I need to park my car somewhere weird Ill often just take the rotor out..

Dude? Why?

[PHillary]

Originally Posted by Jfrahm

It's OK with me. If the alarm is at fault however it might not do much. It sounds like you have already bypassed the alarm? If it doesn't start with the DME relay bypassed you may need to check that alarm bypass wiring.

Which is why I was wondering if the alarm box is needed if there is a way to somehow remove the box and wire/s[lice all of the wires needed for it to start directly

[Monkey Wrench]

that alarm system is a completely unnecessary part, as I explained you can just use three switches or even 1 switch and it will be just as secure. the reason is that a lot more simple and won't fail.

Don't think a potential thief can disable the thing? The info on exactly how to is already out there , its on Clark's garage.

a would be thief won't find info on how you used a simple hidden toggle switch (or switches) to disable the fuel pump.. Even if he did , he wont even know where you chose to put it..or what position the switch(s) need to be in to start the car.