Reupholstering Dashboard...Have Questions

[OK-944]

Finally doing this…after a year of hemming and hawing - I’ve removed and “de-skinned” my (mildly cracked) dashboard and will be using the kit I’d purchased from Classic 9 (which includes both the vinyl material and metal “vent strip”) to do the reupholstery.

But first I have a few questions: One - after having removed the old vinyl from the dash, its obvious that the foam material underneath is in great condition - that aside from a number of very thin cracks, the surface is very smooth and shiny, and still displays a nice sense of flexibility and “give” when pressed.

Furthermore, the crack margins hardly rise above the surface of the rest of the dash - and it looks like I’ll hardly need to sand anything down to get things leveled off. Also…I’m wondering if, instead of “Dremeling” these cracks out (widening/smoothing them to accommodate a filler), I might instead simply use a putty knife to fill them with something thin enough (suggestions as to what?) to find its way into the cracks before it hardens. Make sense - or not?

Finally…is there any reason why I cannot simply skip the step of cementing on the thin layer of foam prior to re-skinning, and just go ahead and apply the new vinyl to the old exposed surface?

At any rate…I’d certainly welcome a bit of feedback here - thanks!

[drkshdw]

As someone who has recovered a few dashes (although not with Classic 9's kit), I will offer this...

Do not skimp on filling and sanding the dash before putting on the new skin. Every flaw will show up through the new material. EVERY flaw. Even flaws you cannot see or feel WILL show up. It is important to get it as smooth as you would if you were going to paint it. Again, do NOT skimp on this step. You will regret it. Also, you need that foam. It will help conceal the flaws you missed and prevent them (or minimize them anyway) from showing through.

As for what to use to fill the cracks, I use Bondo. Grind out the cracks, apply bondo, let cure, sand. Sand some more. Paint it so I can see how even it is. Apply more bondo and sand again. But also, I have never removed the old vinyl before doing this. I keep it in place because it's a) easier to apply the new vinyl to and b) provides a better foundation that just foam.

[OK-944]

Sounds like great advice...thanks!

I'd also thought about using "Great Stuff" (expanding foam) to fill the cracks...but Bondo sounds like a better way to go.

Finally...I'd also thought about simply leaving on the old vinyl - but seeing as there were a few places (mostly near the vent holes) where it had begun to lift slightly, I thought it better to remove it.

At any rate...onward! (and thanks again!)

Oh yes...another question - having removed the (plastic?) vent channel under the dash, as required to attach the Classic 9 metal vent strip, I'll be needing to re-seal this in place (in addition to using the existing metal tabs) before re-installing the dash. I'll need some sort of tar-like goop for this - something which will remain flexible/pliable enough to stay in place for years and years. The old stuff I'd peeled off to remove this "under-vent" is still pliable after 37 years. At any rate - any ideas?

[OK-944]

Got the dash cracks honed out, filled and sanded smooth - and have just completed cementing on the underlayment.

Question: I've left a slightly oversized margin of underlayment unglued - and am wondering if I should run this underlayment over the edges of the dash...particularly the top curved edge over the gauge clusters, plus along the bottom edge adjacent to the climate control.

My worry here is that the combined thicknesses of underlayment plus vinyl top layer might not allow components (gauge cluster, climate control, etc.) to fit securely as needed.

My tendency is to fully trim (and smooth over) the underlayment right to the edge of the gauge cluster opening, and to also trim (and smooth over) along the vertical edge of the climate control "trench," to eliminate this extra thickness as then it would just be the top layer thickness that would need to be accommodated.

Any suggestions? Thanks!