Installing Central Locking system on 924S

[wwdwgs]

Hi, everyone.
924S doesn't have central locking system (from factory - at least mine).
I'm thinking about installing an aftermarket remote system with Porsche actuators (because they fit well). I want to include locking/unlocking the doors, the hatch and add function to raise windows up plus blinking turn signals without horn beep. I'll probably go with the aftermarket micro switches, and I assume that they are ON-OFF-ON, right? Those round plugs are fun to work with.....
Are there any problems that I should be aware of?
What is the function of the micro switches (trigger lock/unlock from the key?) and where do they go - backside of the door pulls (inside the door)?
MW, this is specially for you: I was also looking at Volvo actuators (by VDO) and could not find a pair.

[Monkey Wrench]

volvos have power door locks I took apart a 740 and saved them all.

Ill usually lock the car by closing the drivers door and open the rear door, then reach in to the drivers lock button press it down and that locks all the doors and trunk or hatch. it saves looking for the RIGHT volvo key,I have so many lol.. ;-)


the "normal way is to use the key to lock them from the driver's door.

I think of power mirrors, power door locks, power windows, power antenna power sunroof, heated seats and cruise control and the ignition locking system as a bunch of unnecessary garbage. Personally I would rather not have them there TO break, but thats just an opinion. if they are not there, they won't break.

in my older 66 volvo it has none of that garbage and the thing is reliable as can be. that car has 3 fuses. The wiring for the whole car is less complicated than the schematic for a newer Volvo , just for the seats!

if its exists it may be easier to maintain than remove it.
removing it also harms originality and some care.

volvo used vacuum actuated actuators for the heat controls, I like those but they won't work with the car turned off.

you might need to add linkage , in a volvo the drivers door is different, if you push that lock button down when driving it locks all the doors, good if you find yourself in a rough neighborhood. if you open the door and try to push it down it wont go, that's to prevent you from accidentally locking your own keys in the car.
I overrride that feature by reaching in the back door to lock the drivers door wiht the driverds door lock button , but I make a point of checking if I have my keys as I do it

intermittent wipers are kind of a nice thing to add. I find them handy.

I stripped a 740 and removed all the wiring harness intact, what suprised me was how excesive the wiring in the doors is, its a whole bunch of crap in my opinion , none is necesssary.

just opinions of course I'm not trying to discourging you from doing what you would like to. Some like more "features" I prefer simple and reliable and see unnecessary "features " as sales gimmics.

[Monkey Wrench]

there are many styles and brands of microswitches. many have 3 contacts one is common the other two are normally open and normally closed so you can choose which you want. some have a roller on the flag. some are larger for higher current.

I like this simple alarm. two three position rocker switches.
set the two in a position you like carry the wire through them and ot the fuel pump.




hook every other wire together and to the horn.

if the car is started and the person starting it has not switched them both ot the correct positions even hotwiring it, or using a slidehammer to pull the ignition lock woth help. just sounds the horn, and no fuel pump , no start. thief probably leaves once he honks the horn while mucking with a car. the two switches can be somewhere you like they dont need to be near each other. sure thief could pull the wire off the horn(s) but its confusing enough that he'd have a problem that isn't expected or simple to him. for the owner its really just very simple wiring no electronics. the metal batt style switches are usually more durable than the flat plastic rocker switches. they often have heavier contacts.


"I assume that they are ON-OFF-ON, right?"

try to use the correct terms they will be on the switches. normally open, normally closed
you think of on, instead think of closed circuit.

push buttons can be momentary or push on push off. the switch may have one or two sets of contacts. two or three position usually. youll see terms like single throw or double throw you may see abbreviations for terms like push on push off ST single throw , or double throw (DT)
if you think in terms of a switch being "on and off" you are referring to what it does, but electrically its best to think and speak of being open circuit or closed circuit. NO is common normally open or NC.
often with switches , especially microswitches they will use green and red indicators to mean similar, the colors work better in terms of being an international lanuage.
the point is that if you see green or red this is what its indicating to you. usually referring to normally open or normally closed contacts. if confused just check with a meter, or a battery and a light bulb.

one of the most simple switches is a knife throw switch, not normally used in a car used in a power disconnect switch sometimes

if you thinkin terms of a knife throw switch certain schematics may make better sense. there are different ways of writing schematics and different symbols often its sort of a dummed down representation. what the switch looks like visually is usually electrically irrelevant

some work like a ball point pen, push on push off a horn is a momentary switch

headlights for high low beam may have a relay that is one pulse on the next pulse off.. it has a mechanical movement which I think of as similar to a ball point pen.
you have a momentary switch to switch it , on the signal stalk or on the floor usually.