Need Help ASAP! Turns over and won't fire

[no1biscuit]

I changed my spark plugs and now it turns over and never fires.
Please Help

[1.2gees]

Does it sound like it's trying to fire? You sure you got all the spark plug wires in the right places/order?

Check connections at the coil, to the distributor, and then to the spark plugs themselves. (Assuming it ran before the spark plug change, chanses are you messed up which plug wire connects to which plug).

Good luck, and let us know.
Ahmet

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It's all the driver...

[no1biscuit]

Well I should not have messed up the order because I did one plug at a time. It did run a week ago. It just turns over. No Pop or fire.
Thom

[kukunaokala]

Check for spark then work back. I would have said crossed wires too. Hopefully you did not crank the engine with ANY secondary wire disconnected. Tell us it ain't so. Good luck and aloha, Neal

[EugeneYu]

Impossible. Something must be disconnected.
1, Double check your cylinder fire sequence and your wires to see if they are right.
2, Check wire between cap and coil.
3, Did you remove the cap? If so, make sure the rotor is still in there.
4, If still no fire. Take out one of the spark plugs. Ground it and crank the engine to see if there are fire.

Let's know what the problem is.

Eugene

[drew1]

Biscuit,

Check the connections on the flywheel sensors, make sure that the grounds are good. I had an alternator ground with the wire loose and corroded inside the terminal lead to intermintent charging problemws on a 924t.

Putting back on the distributor cap is so aggravating (& if not done right can bust that expensive rotor), that the next thing I would do is get a noid light to check injector firing. They are less than $5 and GM works if you can't get one for Bosch. If the injectors aren't firing then you get to do the no start routine (fuel pump relay, flywheel sensors, etc)

Good luck with this rough problem.

drew1

edit: make sure you have gas, from somebody thats done that before

[This message has been edited by drew1 (edited 04-05-2001).]

[vas deferens]

If it's none of the above? check the DME relay and the connectiosn for wear...this is only after you have exhausted all of the above suggestions.......hey......it could happen........

[no1biscuit]

I will try all of the suggestions as soon as I get home this afternoon and charge my now dead battery. I really appreciate it. I will post just as soon as I figure it out.
Thom

[TomH]

Pull your distributor and make sure your rotor has not worked itself loose. I read another post about the screw coming off the rotor, so it no longer spun.

[no1biscuit]

I will put that on my list of now 100 things to check. You guys see what happens every time I work on my car myself it cost me more money than it would have if I would have just had the mechanic work on it.
Thom

[Lawrence Coppari]

SUGGESTION FOR CARS EQUIPPED WITH MAF SYSTEMS

Removing and reinstalling the distributor cap on this engine is a pain in the neck.
Rather than worrying about not getting it on right which might get expensive 'cause it chews things up inside, first remove the timing belt plastic cover. There are 7 10mm bolts. On a turbo, you probably will have to remove the aluminum air intake tube upstream of the intercooler (two radiator hose type clamps). Once the timing belt cover is off, remove two more 10mm bolts under plastic cover near the base of the distributor. Then remove the last 10mm bolt (always exposed) at 11 o'clock on distributor mount. The cap then comes off with the mounting plate under it and installation is no problem. Then if you want the cap off, you can see what you are doing and you don't need steel fingers to set the little tabs to lock the darn thing on.



[This message has been edited by Lawrence Coppari (edited 04-05-2001).]

[TheStig]

Tom H- Thats my post =) Stupid lil thing got loose and caused me to trip out thinkin it was a timing belt prob.

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Sorry Officer, my bag of crack fell and while trying to reach it my gun got wedged in between the gas and the brake causing me to speed insanely.

[no1biscuit]

Ok Guys here is the story.
1. no spark at the plug.
2. bypassed DME
3. not the timing belt.
4. metered coil.
a. on the pos to ground during ignition
get 12-24V so I assume that the
ignition switch is good.
b. neg to ground 80ohm. I assume
that the ground is good.
c. when I measure across the coil upon
ignition i get 0VDC which means to me
that the coil is draining the battery.
d. when I measure the coil I get .8ohm
or a dead short. That doesn't sound
right to me.

My anaylsis is coil but your opinion is required....... Please......

[no1biscuit]

My analysis was completely incorrect. There is two connectors in the back of the engine on top. It is the three prong one on the front side. Someone previously broke the connector an it falls apart very easily. I am going to have to repair it. but it now runs. Yeah no towing bill. So what is the connector?

[drew1]

Those sound like the flywheel sensor connectors. Glad you got it going.

drew1

edit: Lawrence, good idea about cap & rotor.

[This message has been edited by drew1 (edited 04-05-2001).]

[CJFusco]

This may sound obvious, but who knows... make sure that the ignition wire is plugged in. Mine came unplugged once, but still rested on the plug, so it took me a few minutes to figure it out.