My not so good experience with my new shocks...

ds475 · 01-16-2004, 10:44 PM

well, i just got my shocks today (4 boge), and i decided i would start with the rear first. obviously, this seems like the best order of operations in my mind, because the back is obviously easier. well, not easier in my case...

the driver's side (rear) was not difficult, bolts were a little rusty (these were the original shocks) but i easily knocked them out with a hammer. the passenger side, well, that's a different story. bottom bolt came out with a little resistance, but the top bolt is rusted COMPLETELY with the steel sleeve within the rubber bushing on the top of the shock. i've gone as far as using a sledge hammer to attempt to knock the sleeve/bolt junction apart, but so far all i've done is f*** up the threads (i've decided that i think i'll just put all new bolts on my shocks). i can see the sleeve move within the rubber bushing and sometimes it just spins the rubber too.

ANY ideas of what to do to that son of b****? i was so frustrated when i came inside (i have to be at work at 7am tomorrow...) that i almost put a gun in my mouth (not really, but i was PISSED) i can't believe how much of a nightmare a simple shock replacement has become. SOMEONE please help me.

what do you mechanics out there do when something like this happens?

Nothing would make me happier than when i get off work tomorrow than to come to the forum and see the perfect solution.

fast924S · fast924S's Garage

USE THE FIRE WRENCH (torch), or a can of PB BLAST, I work on cars all week at toyota and I hate it when bull ***** like that happens, but the best thing to do is just stay cool and keep ur mind clear and thinking of what to do next, remember Bolts are your friends. ANyway Im sure somebody can be more help full then me, Good luck

MrPants · 01-17-2004, 03:36 AM

PB catalyst is a god send.
that and patience. it seems like 80% of wrenching is dealing with all the different ways bolts can be difficult

Makis · 01-17-2004, 04:25 AM

Spray liberarly penetrating oil (WD40) through all the areas near that bolt. That should allow the rust to loosen out. Repeat the sledge hammer procedure/more penetrating oil until it comes out. Also try to leaver out the shock off the bolt, there should be space for some movement there.

Frank B · 01-17-2004, 03:48 PM

I'd cut the B!tch out and replace it. Break out the Torch big guy.
Frank B

ds475 · 01-18-2004, 03:00 AM

well, i'm proud/glad to say i am at the beginning of the end of this nightmare.

i just finished cutting away the shock with a dremel tool, then cutting away the rubber bushing, THEN cutting some slots all the way through the metal sleeve in order to break its bond with the bolt.

i can't believe it, but i did it.
now all i have to do is transfer a little momentum from my hammer via "the punch" to the threaded side of that b!tch, and she'll slip off as fast as a dress on prom night.

problem is, it's 10 minutes to 5(AM), and everyone else in my house is asleep. i can't WAIT to try out my new shocks.
i can now rest, because the hard part is done.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Dremels. Ya gota love em!

Frank B · 01-18-2004, 09:27 AM

Sleep, you gotta love that too....

TNT25169 · 01-18-2004, 11:53 AM

Frank B,

Can you still drive a car and walk? What were/are you in a wheelchair for?

Frank B · 01-18-2004, 01:28 PM

TNT25169,
I was in a wheelchair from July 24th until October 1 because I broke my leg really pretty badly, which needed a titanium rod and 3 screws. I was carrying a 150lb Floor sander motor down a (customers lawn ( steep hill) and lost grip with my right foot, and landed on my twisted around left leg, breaking (shattering/folding in half) my left leg. I can drive but walking still hurtrs my ankle area, after 2 1/2 months of P.T. which has ended finally. I can mountain bike like there's no tomorrow, but walking pretty much sucks. so when I have to drive I drive my wife's minivan not my porsche.

ds475 · 01-18-2004, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Frank B
... but walking pretty much sucks. so when I have to drive I drive my wife's minivan not my porsche.

how does which vehicle you take make walking any easier?

Frank B · 01-18-2004, 02:26 PM

how about any type of walking.....across a room up stairs, out to the car...

Frank B · 01-18-2004, 02:31 PM

here's the leg pre-op..2 days after laying in a hospital screaming high on morphine and dillotted. Both bones were broken, the fib was in about 3,000 pieces and pretty much hanging off .

ds475 · 01-18-2004, 03:38 PM

lord have mercy on your soul.

Frank B · 01-18-2004, 03:59 PM

nice break huh?

ds475 · 01-18-2004, 10:53 PM

ok, get this, now on the front passenger the two bolts at the bottom of the strut, not the oblong cam bolt, but the lower one is FROZEN f***in' solid. i had over 3 feet of leverage on the end of that bolt, and it wouldn't budge. i don't know what to do now.

is PB Catalyst better than WD-40 at rust bustin'?

MrPants · 01-19-2004, 02:45 AM

frank: you didnt get to keep any morphine did you?

Frank B · 01-19-2004, 03:18 AM

Pants,
No , I was on a drip with my own private switch, every 10 minutes it would allow me to injectmyself (electronically) with a dose of Morphine, also I was popping percs and atavan every4 hours..probablly the most pain I've had to experience ever.
DS, cut that shock out also, scraping your knuckles isn't worth the hassle.

..P · 01-19-2004, 07:10 AM

DS475,

the fronts are much more difficult than the rears. I wonder if you have the right tools, hopefully you're using metrics. Nomally a good fitting wrench will to the deed.

I would use a combination of penetrating oil and heat from a "small" hand held torch. Warm em up, squirt more penetrating oil on.

What you now have to look forward to is the big nut at the top of the shock tower accessible from inside the hood of the car. It's best done with an air impact tool but it's certainly possible with regular wrenches. I used a spring compressor and I recommend you do too, otherwise it's downright dangerous. Get a good one that won't slip off. You'll still save a bundle over what the shop will cost you.

IMPORTANT: If ("if") you carefully ("carefully") mark the profile ("profile") of the metal pieces that mate up together on the bottom of the lower shock support, then you can put them back together without ("without") an alignment job. This can be done with a pointed metal scribe like an ice pick.

Good luck, it's a job. Also, it may help if you have another set of hands to give you some assistance

P

profssr2017 · 01-19-2004, 07:24 AM

Frank B -

I generally don't like to talk about pain, but in '97, I was doing some work by myself (all alone - no one else around) that I shouldn't have. To make it a short story, I ended up with a 2200 lb pneumatic cylinder rolling across my lower left leg. In addition to a severe crush injury (put a cantalope in front of your car and drive over it - you'll get about the same effect), I broke my leg in three places, although I was able to get up, get in my truck, and drive to the emergency room (Diesel pickup with 5-speed).

Several days in the hospital, lots of morphine, five operations, lots of tissue loss, skin grafted over the exposed bone, and two years before the skin completely covered the wounds, now living with no feeling between my knee and ankle in the left leg, circulation problems, and scars that look like a shark took two bites out of the leg.

So, I feel your pain. (And skin grafts HURT LIKE H*LL!!!!!!!!!)

On the positive side, this injury has caused me to give up motorcycle riding, and gave caused me to buy a Porsche. Since I was no longer riding my Harleys, I needed something else that the parts broke, fell off, etc.