clutch job...take off flywheel?

cduke · 10-09-2001, 10:17 AM

I'm in the middle of my first clutch job and i've gotten the clutch off (very broken rubber hub) I'm looking at the flywheel and it looks fine but i'm wondering if i should take off the flywheel at all now. I've already got the bolts to replace it and the seal that goes behind it but is this something that i should worry about or should i go ahead and put it back together?

Help would be appreciated!!!
Charlie Duke

ae1969 · 10-09-2001, 11:07 AM

pull the flywheel and have it machined.... no matter how smooth it is ....it may give you problems.... and replace the rear seal while your at it.....

Alex

lordgrommit · 10-09-2001, 11:13 AM

well I've done it both ways and was yet to be burned. My clutch puck went out just like everyone elses NA. I got down to the flywheel and it had black crap all over it I used polishing compound to remove it and it was smooth with only a few minor groves.. it's prob wise to remove it and have it machined. if you don't you may get some minor clutch chatter or your new clutch disk won't last as long..

Matt

javier · 10-09-2001, 11:25 AM

If you want to do the job right, "resurface" is the best way to go.

Dave951 · Dave951's Garage

Remove the flywheel! If for nothing else, to replace that main seal. The seal is a very cheap part, but labor for just the seal would be 30X the cost of the part. Do everything you can while the tranny is off and torque-tube back. You might as well get the flywheel surfaced. It is pretty cheap to have done.

Good luck,
Dave

[This message has been edited by Dave951 (edited 10-09-2001).]

cduke · 10-09-2001, 12:10 PM

Well, that's that! I'll go pull it.

So i'm also planning on doing my motor mounts as well. I was wondering if I should do that now or does the engine need to be attached to the torque tube & transmission to ballance it on the jack while you do the motor mounts? It seems like it'd be convenient since I've got the engine on the jack already and the exhaust off already for the clutch. Any ideas?
I'm not completely certain it would save me time to do it before putting the transmission back in but i think i'll do it before i get the exhaust back on. Sorry for the long questions but i really appreciate the help!

Charlie

Andre · Andre's Garage

Did it look like this?

just took mine out. Where did you get your parts?

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

No it does not. Do one side at a time and you will be fine. Will even be a bit easier to jack the engine up. You will get a better range of movement without having the torque tube attached. I did the mounts while I did the clutch on mine.

[This message has been edited by Scott R (edited 10-09-2001).]

cduke · 10-09-2001, 12:34 PM

Here's mine:

And i got the parts from pelican (complete kit)...I'm a bit of a novice so i wanted to make sure to replace everything and not rely on my judgement on how worn things look. It turned out pretty expensive but i'm saving tons of money so i went ahead with their complete kit. They're great to deal with too. Here's the new one (with the old ring gear and fork):

Charlie

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1985.5 944 N/A

[This message has been edited by cduke (edited 10-09-2001).]

Andre · Andre's Garage

That is the sachs clutch right?i went with Vertex, they have a pretty good deal they have a 3 piece clutch kit for 389, clutch, pressure plate, release bearing. I also needed a slave and i got the pilot bearing and fork bearings to be on the safe side. i'll post a pic of what they look like when i get em but it was a good deal, all the under 500

cduke · 10-09-2001, 01:09 PM

I got the slave & master cyls, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, spring centered clutch, pressure plate, needle bearings, flywheel seal, and motor mounts for $700. I probably could have gotten a better deal by shopping around more but this took care of all of my worries. Peace of mind is worth it to me.
Once i get this and the steering pump done i should have a good daily driver!!!! (this was a fixer upper to say the least)
Motorwerks in Memphis, TN wants $60 to resurface the flywheel. He said it had to be worked down on to surfaces the same amount for the clutch to work properly. Does this sound right?
Charlie

porschepatron · 10-09-2001, 02:30 PM

Food for thought, while you have it out why not get it cut. It will help revs and wears less on the trans, from what I hear it's qutie a noticable difference. If you send it to garrity he will resurface, lighten and balance for 195$.

cduke · 10-10-2001, 10:22 PM

OK - I got the flywheel off (without stripping out any of those $#!% cheesehead bolts i might add) and am about to replace the rear main seal. Have any of you replaced this recently? Can I safely get away with the method in the Haynes (= gospel) using a pipe section or ring compresser type thing or should I wait/pay for the oil seal installation tool thing (like my mechanic suggests)? What should i expect when i take the old one out?
The method in Haynes looks like it's good but I wanted to make sure and get a little input since I'm so far into the car

Charlie

Diesel · Diesel's Garage

If you've been turning wrenches for a while(I've been at it for 20 big ones) you learn when the factory tools are necessary. Just because tool #$#$# is mentioned in the manual doesn't mean you have to use it. Even(believe it or not) the dealerships don't get EVERY factory tool. LOOK at the part. Picture doing it. HOW much does the new part cost(can you afford to buy it again if you f&&k it up?). Some rear mains I've put in with the factory's pusher-type tools and they STILL seeped oil. Hoped my $.02 helped!

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Dan, '78 Pearl white 924