Ugh -- what have I gotten myself into?

[Drover]

My 5 weeks ownership has brought the following:

--New timing belt, new cam & balance shaft seals;

--New oil pressure sending unit;

--New thermostat;

--New tires;

--Started running hot;

--now won't start at all.

And I've barely put 500 miles on it. Probably because it's inoperative more often than operative.

Did I just buy a 60's Jaguar or something? Sheesh.

[scheistermeiste]

yeah i used to feel pretty much about the same way about my car. but then i bought a car thats in worse condition and started driving it every day... no getting into and driving my porsche is awsome compared to the other car. maybe thats what you should do get another car that is worse than this one and try driving it every day while trying to repair it... itll make you pry to get a chance to drive your porsche!

[AFJuvat]

Originally posted by Drover
My 5 weeks ownership has brought the following.......
...And I've barely put 500 miles on it. Probably because it's inoperative more often than operative...
Did I just buy a 60's Jaguar or something? Sheesh.

Welcome to Porsche ownership. Unfortunately, you are cleaning up the previous owners lack of maintenance.

Running hot: Are you sure the thermostat is installed properly. If so, chances are you have a big air bubble in the system. Do a search for "bleeding the cooling system"

No Start. There are several possibilities for this one. You will need to determine if you have fuel and spark. Spark is easy enough to check. Fuel you can test by jumping the fuel pump relay and see if you can hear the pump running. If it is, go buy a "noid light" for Bosch fuel injection systems at any auto parts store - $7. disconnect the harness from one of the injectors and plug the noid light in and crank the car - the light should flash at regular intervals.

AFJuvat

[Drover]

Oh, and in my list of woes, I forgot to add "replaced ignition switch"

Originally posted by AFJuvat
Welcome to Porsche ownership. Unfortunately, you are cleaning up the previous owners lack of maintenance.

Actually it was pretty well maintained with the records to prove it. At 56K miles it was already on its second timing belt (I just installed the third), the water pump had been upgraded, cap/rotor/plugs/wires already replaced, etc. It did, however, spend a lot of the last 3 or 4 years sitting around.

Running hot: Are you sure the thermostat is installed properly. If so, chances are you have a big air bubble in the system. Do a search for "bleeding the cooling system"

The system was bled 3 times, though I won't rule out a 4th. Furthermore, I know I'm getting a bogus reading from the thermostat because the needle position changes depending on what accessories are running. The fans cycle on and off much like they should. Still, I won't drive it much until I know for sure that it's operating at safe temp.

No Start. There are several possibilities for this one. You will need to determine if you have fuel and spark. Spark is easy enough to check. Fuel you can test by jumping the fuel pump relay and see if you can hear the pump running. If it is, go buy a "noid light" for Bosch fuel injection systems at any auto parts store - $7. disconnect the harness from one of the injectors and plug the noid light in and crank the car - the light should flash at regular intervals.

I've got fuel; I can smell it. The folks who put in the timing belt and ignition switch say the DME is "intermittent" and tapping it would cause cause the car to start. Now that I know where the DME is located (I think?) I'll give that a try. And then try to source a cheap replacement.

[URIN 2ND]

It's fun, isn't it?

Heh...at least it's all minor so far. Remember, you're gonna have to make up for all the neglect from previous owners. But take a deep breath, and do it right the first time...and you'll only have to do this stuff once.

Once it's done and running smoothly, you'll be able to rest at night knowing that YOU restored the car to good running order, and you will have faith in her reliability once again.

Stick with it!

[justin]

Here's a little trick that works for most, you cannot curse at these cars, you have got to be nice to them or they will never run....

[vital-transform]

AND AS SOON AS YOU GET ONE THING FIXED IT WILL RUN GREAT FOR EXACTLY 3.5 DAYS BEFORE THE NEXT THING BREAKS...THE OLD JAGS WERE MORE RELIABLE
you will eventually develop water cooled front engine esp or WCFEESP and will be able to predict the next failure and have already shopped for the parts and gotten them at the best price and be ready to replace them when the failure actually occurs!

[Panzer909]

Hey, man - put it all into perspective. Every car in the universe needs some TLC especially when they're nearing 20-odd years old. This applies to a Honda Accord, Porsche 944, and (especially) the british cars.

It sounds like a lot of the issues are wear & tear things, like a timing belt job and tires. Did the PO make you aware of this? if he did, I would have factored in another $1600+ on top of the asking price.

And despite times when I'm convinced that the British roadsters (I'm currently doing a ground up restoration on a TR-6) operate on a plane of physics that apply nowhere else in the universe, they generally can by reliable if everything is frequently looked after. The same applies to your 944.

[vital-transform]

would love to see pic of the TR!
how is it going?
moved to OT?

[bigyagi]

i agree with most of the comments. the majority of these cars are nearing the 20 year mark,and they do hold up well, probably better than most makes. my only problem is with the quality of the more renewable parts, ie: master and clutch cylinders that only seem to last a year, and radiators that start to leak about the same time. pretty poor relays too, that remind me of the reliability of lucas electrics!! panzer 909, good job on the tr6! i used to have a triumph vitesse mark2, the smaller 2 litre straight six engine. the rear spring mounted across the axle can make for some interesting cornering!!
bob.

[KLR]

If tapping the DME restores function, then there are probably some cold solder joints on the boards. This is not hard to fix. Just follow the instructions at Danno's racer-x site to remove and disassemble the DME, fire up a soldering iron, and start reheating joints. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain; this should solve your problem. If not, then it's time for the replacement DME.

[pearldrum]

My car used to break down about every 3 weeks. I'm about to break a new record (unless i just jinxed myself) by breaking 6 months without a break down. I've had to replace or fix almost everything that came on my car. Yet I love my '44...

[Brando]

My 944 never broke down. EVER.

But it did overheat quite often. Many times in june at 100-degree weather i would have to pull off into the shade and let the engine temp drop.

Once everything is in tip-top shape and working order, your whole view on the car will change. When you can enjoy the car, not just drive it but actually enjoy it, your view will change tremendously.

And then you'll auto-x...

[Drover]

Welp, found the DME. Steering column indeed. Gave it a tap, car started right up. Then died about a mile down the road. Gave it a slight kick, starts right back up. Grr...


Should I start with the relay? Any other suggestions?

EDIT: Ah, other suggestions have been posted already... A starting point.

[Roger Hall]

Keep the faith young padwon...may the force be with you.

As for British cars only three little words "Lucas Electrical System" British cars operate on several different planes of reality. Occaisionally a few of those planes converg. Then its quick go for a drive before the universe rights itself.

[Chris_924s]

What did you get yourself into?

Ownership. Enjoy. It will make you smile soon.

[Drover]

Originally posted by Panzer909
It sounds like a lot of the issues are wear & tear things, like a timing belt job and tires. Did the PO make you aware of this? if he did, I would have factored in another $1600+ on top of the asking price.

The PO was pretty candid about the state of the car. He didn't seem to know much about it, mechanically speaking, but he did offer that the timing belt was old, and that there appeared to be a substantial oil leak from behind the timing belt cover (RED FLAG: seals). So I was aware that the belt and seals would need to be replaced, at a minimum. I thought I'd have to throw in a water pump too but luckily the original owner had already upgraded to a turbo pump when he changed out the belt at about 30K. So yeah, I knew I was in for those. And I knew the tires were an issue. But on top of that I've also had to throw in an oil sending unit, a thermostat (wish I would have known that while they were fiddling with the timing belt -- basically had to pay the labor twice), I'm dealing with this flaky DME issue, and it's still reading hot. Whether or not it's actually running hot has yet to be determined, but I know the temp gauge is giving me a BS readout regardless. So I've got that to deal with too.

All told, I have $4,900 in this car so far, including purchase price and repairs to date. Throw in another $500 or so for decent tires and I reckon I'm about even considering the mileage and general condition of the car. Hopefully the DME issue will be easily resolved. I hope Mr. Wilk is correct.

[vital-transform]

my sun visor clip broke yesterday on the drivers side, the visor was then resting on the rear view mirror...today the rear view mirror fell off
it was exactly 3.5 days since my last repair

[..P]

sounds like you have most of the pain out of the way. with low milage like that, you still have a great piece of machinery, but you need to get the bugs worked out.

the fuel filter, could be suspect but I doubt it at that milage

the fuel injection fuel pump relay is the suspect I would go after now.

with the belt changed out, etc., you're ready to roll, and it's not rocket science, you just have to find the gremlin and get on the roads with the rest of us

regards, P

[Drover]

Originally posted by FR Wilk
Unplug the DME connector and plug it back in. Repeat 5 times. It would not be the first time that the connector was almost on correctly requiring a thump for contact.

Nope, that didn't do it. And now it's stalling with increasing frequency. Seems like the DME is about to croak. Any chance it's the relay? From what I've read, once you're tapping the DME box, it's the DME itself and not the relay...