Car Stranded - Help!

GostRidr · 11-26-2004, 11:47 AM

I have been trying to diagnose a fuel delivery issue over the last several weeks but the car beat me to it today. It is down at the post office and I have walked home! I will perform the pull one injector and relay jump tests. I am pretty sure my FPR is the culprit but I can't perform a fuel pressure test to confirm.

After I replace my altered fuel rail (a whole other story

) I have to find a gauge adapter. I have an Actron fuel pressure gauge with a shrader/GM style adapter. According to Actron tech support, no one makes an adapter for our test ports!? I have heard of some fabrication but don't know the best way to proceed. Here are the questions:

Is there another way to test our pressure at the rail?

Is there a pre made adapter available from anyone for our rails?

If I make one, since my gauge is shrader, will the adapter need a pintle (shrader pin pusher) or will the pressure somehow compensate?

Anyone know the sizes I will be dealing with? Clarks lists both 11x1.5 and 12x1.5?

Thanks for all the needed help!

Peter

GostRidr · 11-26-2004, 01:47 PM

Update-

Got down there with my relay jumpers, tool kit and it started right up. That was about 3 hours later. Doesn't that mean my FPR is faulty? Too much pressure?!

Peter

Zero10 · 11-26-2004, 10:02 PM

I don't know the details on your fancy fuel rail, but on the normal fuel rails, the thread is M11 x 1.5, and it's pretty much impossible to find. The best way is to get a spare fuel rail end cap, and drill it to accept a 1/8"NPT pressure gauge. I can't find mine right now, or I would offer it to you.

If it started right up 3 hours later, that doesn't mean it's FPR. If it was FPR, it would probably stall again shortly after.

To me it sounds like speed/reference sensors, does the tach move when it turns over? (well, I guess make that did it move, and turned over, since it is running now)

speedracing944 · speedracing944's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Zero10
I don't know the details on your fancy fuel rail, but on the normal fuel rails, the thread is M11 x 1.5, and it's pretty much impossible to find. The best way is to get a spare fuel rail end cap, and drill it to accept a 1/8"NPT pressure gauge.

I drilled, tapped, and installed a 1/8" gauge on a spare cap. When I installed it the cap would not seal off because I had to take the ball bearing out. What else could I do to get this to work?

GostRidr · 11-27-2004, 11:06 PM

Thanks for the help Zero10. Here is a picture of my 'fancy fuel rail' so you can see yet another abortion my PO is putting me through. Also, here is a picture of my guage, cap and used rail that I will replace.

I understand that if I drill an old cap I can thread it but that still leaves me with two female threaded cuffs, the cap and the one on the end of my gauge. What do I place between them that allows the fuel through? Also, is my gauge the wrong kind? I have a shrader tip so I will need to activate the pintle won't I?

Unfortunately, my starting problems today were the opposite of yesterday. Hot starts were great but cold starts were slow (but not impossible).

By the way, DME relay, O2 sensor are new. Idle pulses when car first starts between 400-1000 with oil pressure at 5. Then idle stabilizes at around 1050 (this is a little high right?). Oil pressure stays high while driving but drops down to about 2.9 at idle. When cold cranking the engine, the tach does bounce a little but not to the first line.

Speed, good question about the sealing ball. Let me know if someone has an answer for you.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads4/DCP_02531101629070.jpg[/img]
Thanks,
Peter

GostRidr · 11-28-2004, 09:34 PM

More difficulties today. At least it's not the fuel filter, I changed that this morning. Zero10, I looked up the testing of the speed reference sensors. I will test those this week. Back to fuel pressure - how do I create an adapter that fits the fuel gauge AND deals with the shrader cuff on the gauge?!

Thanks,
Peter